This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York

In the middle of the Bering Sea, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, two ships cross paths. Once again I have a ship on radar right at the end of my watch. This vessel is using the new AIS, or automated identification system, as does the Explorer. AIS lets other vessels know who you are and can also give information on the current routing and even purpose of the vessel. This one is a large commercial trawler heading north, over 200 feet long and very modern – the Starbound.

We hail the ship and ask for weather information to compare with what we have already received. The captain of the trawler is more than a little surprised to see our relatively small sailboat way out here and southbound. His first question is to ask where in the world we are coming from. Anders quickly replies “Sweden, via the Northeast Passage”. He wishes us well only to hail again shortly after with a few more questions. He has internet onboard and has already discovered our expedition web page – technology is amazing!

Our friendly exchange with Starbound reminds me of the recently approved Arctic Fishery Management Plan (FMP). This was a landmark decision where conservation groups and the fishing industry agreed to use a conservation first approach to commercial fishing in the US Arctic. The Arctic FMP prohibits the expansion of commercial fishing in federal arctic waters until researchers gather sufficient information on the arctic marine environment to prevent adverse impacts of commercial fishing on the ecosystem.
Implementation of the Arctic FMP lays down a new standard for planning resource development in the Arctic in a precautionary way. It bars resource exploitation until we know enough about the Arctic to allow safe and sustainable development to proceed. It protects what we have now while we gather the necessary information to plan future activities. I can only hope other industries follow this leadership.
The Arctic is home to many species of marine mammals, seabirds, shorebirds, fish, shellfish, crustaceans and other invertebrates. The Arctic is also a fragile ecosystem, with relatively short, simple food chains. It is slow to recover from disturbance and injury. Effects from even a small commercial fishery in the Arctic could have substantial impacts that ripple throughout the ecosystem.
The arctic acean is also the epicentre of climate change impacts, showing an average temperature increase almost four times the global average. Rapidly rising temperatures, reduced summer sea ice, ocean acidification, and reduced benthic productivity associated with climate change could have serious implications for any prospective fisheries.
The Arctic gives us the opportunity to do it right, to learn from past mistakes. If we take a precautionary approach, we can plan for sustainable fishing that does not damage the overall health of this fragile ecosystem and will provide both food and employment opportunities into the future.
As my watch ends, I can finally see our destination on the edge of our electronic navigation chart. The seas have calmed to gentle swells and the winds are slow and variable.

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York

South to Alaska! We head out into a beautifully calm Gulf of Anadyr and the current is going our way, giving us a small boost in speed. This is a perfect way to start our trip across the Bering Sea. Our planned route will take us just south of St Mathew Island and along the edge of the continental shelf that separates Russia from Alaska.
The boat is strikingly different with only three crew members onboard. Instead of tight quarters for eight, we now have room to roam and spread out a bit. It is noticeably quieter and we feel a sense of freedom as we head back to sea with the last of our tight deadlines behind us. The atmosphere is instantly relaxed and happy with two men who feel more at home on the sea than land, and one that could easily learn this sailing lifestyle.
Fulmars keep constant company with the boat, soaring and darting around the main mast. The seas remain calm into the evening as we ease into our new watch schedule. Anders will keep the night and midday watch and I move to the 8-12 time slots. Niklas takes over the captain’s room since he will stay on the longest.
The sea is virtually still when I take over the watch at 8 PM. Niklas gives me a few pointers on the radar and reviews the basic duties I used to share with Anders: hourly check of the engine systems and basic navigation. I periodically poke my head up through the hatch to get a better view and enjoy the evening air. I can hear the fulmars still following along with us in the silence of the night.
At about half past ten, I have a ship on the radar and quickly make visual contact with binoculars. She is abeam the port side and will pass well behind our route. As I scan towards the bow I pick up a second ship at the one o’clock position and not yet on the radar. It is initially hard to discern her course or direction, so I wait patiently to see if it gets closer. The two most dangerous things for sailboats such as the Explorer are shorelines (things you can hit) and other boats (things that can hit you). Luckily the night is clear and we have excellent radar onboard to help my novice eyes. Even though we are heading south into somewhat busier seas, rescue is still far away and the waters quite cold.
With a ship on both sides of me, I suddenly hear a loud “swoosh!” and a “thunk”. It sounds like something has come up alongside the boat so I quickly pop up for a look and only to see nothing. I look around the dark cabin and suddenly worry we may be passing through fishing grounds and have tangled in some gear. Great I thought, my first solo night watch and now this mysterious noise and in the middle of ship traffic. I finally notice an odd bulge in the pile of life vests sitting in the port locker. One of the self inflating vests had gone off by chance – mystery solved!

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York
The wind and seas ease as we approach Anadyr. We pick up a local pilot as we enter the long bay that leads to the city. He’s a friendly retired captain who spent 20 years in charge of big ships along Russia’s eastern and northern coasts. Anders takes the wheel so I go down and cook up a hearty brunch of potatoes, eggs, and a mystery ham-like product we picked up in Pevek. It actually turns out to be very good and the pilot happily shares our meal. I wish I could speak Russian so I could truly visit with this interesting man.
Like so many, I squandered early opportunities to learn a second language. Living in such a large country, and having few chances to travel abroad in my youth, I truly did not understand the importance and utility of being multi-lingual. So I studied a little German, a little Spanish, and a little Chinese, but mastered none of these languages. I have very few regrets in my life, but this is definitely one.
In my work with WWF, I routinely interact with colleagues and partners from around the world. It is not uncommon for my European and Russian colleagues to speak three and sometimes four languages with relative ease. I envy the ability to communicate more across cultures. We were so very fortunate on this trip to have Victor Boyarsky to translate, but there is something you miss if you are unable to participate in casual conversations.
There is much I would have liked to ask people as we transited the Russian coast. Questions about their day to day lives and changes they have witnessed over the past decade. While it was a lifetime experience to sit with Vladilen in Ryrkaipiy and Fedor in Vankarem, it would have been even more so to have conversed with them in this setting. Much like politics, language is an artificial barrier separating people from more fully understanding one another.
Back on the boat, everyone is awake and 5 of the crew are madly packing their bags after spending over a month at sea. Ola, Hannibal, Per-Magnus, Fredrik, and Victor will spend one last night aboard the Explorer before checking into the Hotel Chukotka in Anadyr for the weekend. We have made arrangement to clear customs early tomorrow morning and they will have to have themselves and all of their gear off the boat when the agents arrive.
Anadyr sits back in a protected bay and is a very interesting town. As we motor into the dock, I am surprised and happy to see a new development going in across from the city – wind power! A half dozen brand new turbines dot the hillside, one still under construction. Approaching the dock you see clean, brightly colored buildings, several quite modern in design, and a stunning all-wood Russian Orthodox church with gilded domes. Even the cranes on the dock are getting fresh paint and the town seems busy with activity and new construction.
This is the home of Roman Aboramovich, the well-known owner of Chelsea FC, the English Premier League football team. Along with supporting renovations in some of the Chukchi communities, Mr Aboramovich has invested heavily in Anadyr, and it shows. The streets are paved and the grocery store is as modern and well stocked as you would see in any large city, though the population here only approaches 13,000. There is a sense of optimism and pride in this place.
Following a quick look around town, we buy a few fresh ingredients and have our farewell dinner on the boat. Bags are stacked everywhere as we share thanks and stories from the trip thus far. The morning will come much too early!

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York

Life at 20 degrees … I fell asleep last night to a boat pitching against a head wind – raising me up and then dropping me in my bunk. Luckily for me, I am very good at sleeping! I awoke this morning curled comfortably on the wall of my berth.
The usual morning orientation is a bit more exaggerated when you are under sail and leaning to port a steady 20 degrees, with an occasional 25 degree roll thrown in just to keep you on your toes. Walking up to the salon is more of a chore as everything has shifted and the gear rack, with clothes normally hanging vertically against the wall, has become a maze of coats, shoes, and dangling immersion suits. Each step is taken only after securing the next handhold. We are making a steady 8 knots in 6 to 8 foot seas under blue skies. We pass Provideniya and head out across the Gulf of Anadyr.
The coastline is mountainous and long fjords are becoming common. The hillsides are mostly rock with only light scrub vegetation. I expected more marine activity as we head south, but see no other vessels today. Shore based border guards have contacted us twice in the last 12 hours to verify our identity, much more active monitoring than the earlier part of our trip.
Fulmars keep us company all day as they cruise low along the wave tops and play in the eddy of our sails. The afternoon sun warms the cabin and waves wash across the deck. The sound of the sea is relaxing as I think about the past several days and I am filled with hope.

Despite all of the bad news in the world, despite the looming threats of a rapidly changing climate, this voyage has renewed my sense of hope for the future. Meeting the people of northern Russia reminded me of our common aspirations and goals. We share a universal need for clean air, fresh water, and wild resources from the land and sea. I wonder too if we could communicate directly more often, and not through the lens of our governments, how much better people would understand this commonality? Sharing tea with people in this remote part of the world has renewed my faith in humanity. There is still so much that is good in this world.
The explosion of wildlife in the Chukchi and Bering seas has also buoyed my spirits. Travelling through huge areas of still untamed wild spaces, witnessing that, at least in some parts of the Arctic, wildlife is yet abundant, people still live from the land and sea, and ecosystems appear intact, renews my faith in the resilience of the natural world.
We still have the chance to conserve this unique region, not just in Russia, but across the Arctic, while still meeting the needs of people and developing resources in a precautionary, sustainable manner. Saving the Arctic, such a key regulator of the global environment, we can also help save the landscapes and wildlife in our own back yards. The wild lands, wildlife, clean air, and fresh water that ultimately sustain us all.

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York

The surrounding landscape is mountainous and beautiful. New snow covers the higher elevation in what is called “termination dust” back home in Anchorage. I mix up some excellent Swedish hot chocolate to keep warm while I pass the time in the cool, quiet wheelhouse.
The sun slowly rises over an abandoned border guard post on the south side of the Cape. An old tower sits empty and a broken radar mast swings with the morning breeze. Rusting 55 gallon drums lie in piles around the broken down facility. A few short years ago and you could have seen similar abandoned radar stations along the Alaskan coast, though the US military has finally taken action to begin dismantling and cleaning up the sites. 55 gallon drums are so common in the Arctic they are referred to as “tundra daisies” – a sad legacy of past exploits. I can only hope we have learned some hard lessons as we again look at developing areas in the Arctic both on and offshore.
I rouse Anders at 2 AM and we pull the anchor and begin heading to our next planned stop at the village of Lorena. I fall asleep thinking of the shower I plan to take in the morning before my next shift. It has been a few days!
I wake up at 9 AM to conversations and activity below deck – something is up and I assume it is an interesting wildlife sighting. As I grab my clothes, I learn otherwise. We have been ordered to drop anchor and prepare for boarding by a Russian coast guard vessel – definitely not on our agenda. Victor is clearly unhappy and a little bit concerned as he readies all of our paperwork. We are boarded and searched by two polite, but quite serious young men. All of our paperwork is checked out and each of is compared to our passport photos. We wait below for hours before we are cleared to continue, however, we are no longer allowed to make any landings other than Anadyr.
Victor is the most disappointed as he really wanted to visit several of the local towns and make connections with the people in this region. So did I, but I also have come to expect the unexpected and can roll with the slight change of plans. It is simply a paperwork issue and is a reminder that despite the sense of globalisation and free trade, countries are still very controlled, and sometimes, closed to outside visitors. We are glad to have had such wonderful visits earlier in the trip.
Our distraction with the coast guard is soon forgotten as we sight first one then numerous spouts on the horizon. We are just south of Loreno, an active whaling community, and we can see why they chose this resource. There must be over 100 grey whales in the area as we sit and watch them blow and fluke for at least an hour. The sheer abundance of animals and productivity of this region is incredible!

Seas are calm and we take advantage to prepare a nice dinner. Tonight we will share chilli, with fresh baked focaccia (it turns out the engine room is the perfect temperature for proofing yeast breads), and a mixed berry crisp for dessert. The winds start to pick up again as the evening progresses.

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York

“Climate change is not something which will happen in the future, it is happening now, most dramatically in the Arctic. The main cause is clear and undisputed. Increased carbon dioxide in the atmosphere due to the burning of fossil fuels is accepted as the main cause of climate change by all scientists save those working for the fossil fuel industry. Polar bears may be some of the earliest victims, but the rest of us are not far behind.” – Steve Sawyer

Our local climate has changed dramatically in the past day. The sea temperature is now above 6 C. We have turned the corner this morning and are now in the Bering Strait, heading south. The one thing we should have seen much more of this trip was summer sea ice, but other than the occasional patch of drift ice encountered, the main pack is far to our north. We are approaching the annual sea ice minimum, generally around mid September, and I will be interested to see if the winds we’ve experienced change the final outcome. The last report I heard anticipated significant loss, but likely not another record year as in 2007.
The village of Uelen sits just north of Cape Dezhnyova, the easternmost point of the Russian mainland. It is 7 AM local time when we sight the village and are surprised when we are hailed on the radio. Someone is up early and alert! We wake up Victor who explains who we are and arranges for a possible visit later in the day. The seas are too rough to land from the north, so we will round the cape and hope for a better anchorage.
At 8 AM the champagne cork flies and the crew assembles on the bow with Ola to celebrate. We are sitting abeam of the Cape and the expedition has now officially transited the Northeast Passage! Cheers and handshakes abound and many photos are taken to document the expedition’s success. It is a perfectly dramatic setting for what continues to be an amazing journey, and it is far from over. Steep cliffs drop to the ocean and seabirds are swirling in all directions. We count four gray whales during our celebration and can see both Diomede Islands from the bow (yes- I truly can see Alaska from my floating house in Russian waters!).
We round the cape and look for a good place to set the hook. A large tanker also sits at anchor nearby and a cargo ship passes us as we head into the bay. As Arctic shipping picks up, the Bering Strait will become a critical passageway and is notorious for fog and very strong currents. This is also a crucial passageway for seabirds, whales, seals, walrus, and polar bear. A shipwreck here could be disastrous and an oil spill would be carried for miles. This serves as another reminder that we need a strong governance framework for the Arctic including reasonable oversight of shipping activities and greatly improved rescue and accident response capabilities.
While Ola and the team have successfully navigated the Passage, we are still miles from Anadyr, where most of the crew will fly home. We are also a very long way from Dutch Harbour, Alaska where I will depart the ship after crossing the Bering Sea. The Bering is one of WWF’s priority ecoregions and home to not only the world’s most productive fisheries, but also Kamchatka, the Pribilof Islands, and Bristol Bay. Our field offices in Alaska and Kamchatka are focused on protecting these important places from some of the very same threats we have in the Arctic: shipping and industrial exploitation.
As Anders, Niklas, and I make our way across the Bering Sea, I will touch on some of these issues. Once we depart Anadyr, the trip will become an open ocean voyage and I will continue to update you on our experiences as we enter the region Vitus Bering described “where the sea breaks its back.” Until then, we have more Russian coast to cover over the next few days, and many more memorable experiences to share!

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York

“A piece of tundra and the sea is all I need.” – Fedor Tymnetagin, Umky Patrol Member
We arrive at the village of Vankarem at midday. This is a traditional Chukchi settlement of about 200 people and is reminiscent of the Alaskan villages I have visited. A cluster of neat one story homes sit together near the shore with boats pulled up on the tundra and fishing nets stretched in the water.
Just as we set out in the zodiac, we notice a man rowing out to us in a very small dinghy. It is Fedor Tymnetagin, one of the Umky Patrol leaders in Vankarem. We rendezvous on the beach with two more of the patrol members, Alexander and Anatoly, and make introductions. As has become customary, we are first invited for tea!
The village is in stark contrast to the last places we have visited. Most of the past towns had a significant Russian government or military presence in the 1950s and had a legacy of large concrete buildings and a lot of unused, decaying structures. Vankarem looked brand new and was very tidy. This was in part due to the donation of new homes by the well-known Russian, Roman Aboramovich. Though the homes were a onetime gift, the residents have continued to clean up old structures and make Vankarem an attractive place to live.
Walrus are not new to Cape Vankarem, though they have grown in numbers during years of record ice retreat like 2007. That same year, Vankarem counted 200 polar bears in and around town, so the patrol had a very busy season! Along with supporting the patrol work, WWF helped the village of Vankarem establish the Cape as an official nature reserve to protect the haul out. We also provide support to move walrus carcasses away from town so as not to attract any additional bears. The people here depend on the sea for survival and have a deep connection to the surrounding landscape and wildlife. It is a very peaceful place.

Fydor and the others offer to guide us out to the Cape to observe walrus up close. Unlike Ryrkaipiy, the walrus here do not spook as easily and can be approached from above without disturbance. It is a beautiful tundra-covered point with steep rocky beaches. Thousands of walrus are hauled out on the north and south sides and we soon here the familiar sounds competition for beach space. We sit for several hours watching the walrus, taking in the views, and visiting with the guys about life in Vankarem.
In February 2010, we plan to bring Fydor and two other Umky Patrol leaders to Alaska. The idea is to facilitate conversations among northern communities facing some of the same issues as a result of the changing climate. We hope that the examples from the work of the Chukchi people can be a model for grass roots conservation efforts in Alaska and elsewhere. The community meetings will be a good first step.

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York

The boat is moving so slowly and in calm waters as I take my watch with Anders. Ryrkaipiy is in sight, but it is still dark and too early to approach, so we reduce speed to a mere 2 knots and make a very gradual arrival. From a distance we begin to see the tell tale signs of a former military base- abandoned structures and debris. In the middle of this however, is what appears to be well-maintained and colourfully painted buildings.
The sunrise reveals a beautiful landscape surrounding the settlement. The Chukchi Mountains stretch out to the west, some with snow covered peaks. Rolling hills surround the town and Cape Schmidt is virtually an island connected only by a thin gravel strip. The island is rocky and dramatic compared to the relatively flat landscapes seen thus far.
A light breeze from the south has brought much warmer temperatures so I go out on the forward deck as we approach closer to shore. The light is just marginal for binoculars as I try to investigate this new area. Then I hear it, an unusual noise travelling across the water. As we draw closer and the dawn breaks, the mystery is revealed: we can see walrus!

On the shores of the rocky headlands and stretching out into the ocean we can see brown bodies jostling for beach space and heads bobbing in the sea. As we set anchor and the day is fully upon us, I see we are also surrounded by ringed seals, cormorants, seabirds, and sea ducks. A flock of geese also cruise by to the south. Compared to the seas we just left, this is truly an explosion of life.
The hundreds of walrus we saw initially were only an appetiser too as we can now see thousands including a brown carpet stretching far up the south facing hill. To top it off, we have one polar bear in sight of the boat too! It appears to be feeding on a walrus carcass, of which there are plenty, and is a quite healthy looking male. I have never seen such an abundance of wildlife in one place at one time. The sounds from the haul out grow louder as I sip my morning coffee in the sun. I should be in my bunk, but this is just too amazing to pass up and the weather is the best we have seen.
Ryrkaipiy slowly comes to life as I see the occasional person walking and many taking a good look at this strange boat sitting just offshore. Visitors here are truly rare, especially by sea. We decide to make our landing around 10 AM and make arrangements on the VHF with the local border guard to meet at the beach.
This is a special visit for me as it is the home of Vladilen Kavriy, the father and driving force behind the Umky Patrol. I met Vlad at a meeting last year in the Ukraine and hoped to one day visit him in Ryrkaipiy. He is expecting us and was actually out on patrol when we came in this morning – always watching and aware of his surroundings.
The Umky Patrol was born out of tragedy. In 2005, a young girl was killed by a polar bear in this village. In response the town decided to take actions to prevent this from happening again. In coordination and with support from WWF, the Umky Patrol now works to reduce bear human conflict in several villages across the Russian Arctic, manage attractants around towns, educate the public on safety around bears and walrus, minimise disturbance to walrus haul outs, and guard against poaching. The activities of the patrol members, especially their outreach efforts within their communities, has also led to grass roots conservation in the designation of new protected areas for recently formed and existing walrus haul outs. Something I would love to see happen more frequently in other parts of the Arctic – community-led conservation.
The paperwork check on shore is a brief formality and we are quickly making introductions to a group of locals including Vlad and two of his team: Tatiana (a local Chukchi woman) and Varvera (an intern from Moscow who luckily speaks some English). The day has been mapped out by our friends onshore. First we will visit the walrus haul out, then go for tea at Vlad’s, then it is off to visit the bear on the island, a presentation by our crew on the expedition at the town hall, followed by a dinner reception – northern hospitality at its finest!
The opportunity to sit next to a walrus haul out estimated to approach 20,000 animals is truly a unique and stunning experience. The sounds alone are really something – barking and grunting with occasional whistles. Walrus cover the beaches, hillside, and water. It must take a huge amount of prey to support this many animals. Some walrus nap while others vie for positions on the beach and it seems walrus are quite good at spooking themselves into mini-stampedes. All of this activity is just a few hundred metres from town.
Walrus had not occupied this area in recent memory and definitely not in these numbers. Nordenskjold reported seeing walrus in this area, but we have no idea in what numbers. We do know that walrus throughout the Chukchi have been abandoning the sea ice completely when it recedes out beyond the continental shelves. We know this from animals tracked by satellite tags and also from observations along both the Chukotka and Alaskan coasts of walrus appearing in large numbers and in areas they have never been seen before.
I have mentioned earlier the hazards of this strategy to walrus and people. It also puts walrus at risk of depleting their coastal food resources. Walrus rely on the drifting sea ice to distribute them randomly across large areas, so they are constantly on the move. Forced to come ashore, they are very limited in foraging and safe haul out areas. While walrus can live on shore quite well, it is widely held that this scenario will support far fewer animals than exist today.
We take afternoon tea at Vlad’s home – a great Russian tradition of sharing a light meal. We snack on homemade bread, dried fish, and pelmini (potato dumplings with sour cream). We then head off to visit the island’s current lone polar bear. Vladilen has an amazing understanding of the behaviour of polar bears, and while he respects them greatly, he does not fear them and carries only a two metre-long stick. Having worked with polar bears for the past decade, I am much more interested in watching Vlad than the bear on this occasion!
As the day turns to night, we head for the grand finale of our visit. As we enter the community centre, we are impressed with its quality and size. We are truly surprised to enter a packed auditorium filled with local community members who have come to hear our presentations on the expedition. Following a brief lecture by Ola and Victor, and some good Q&A, it was time for the town to once again impress us with their hospitality. For the next hour we were the guests of honour for a truly impressive performance of Chukchi song and dance!
We ended our visit with a very pleasant dinner hosted by the mayor and some local dignitaries including Vlad. The food was great, but the company was even better. For anyone who has travelled much in Russia, singing is a national past time and we were treated again and again to beautiful traditional songs as it grew close to our departure time.
It was a truly exceptional day, one of the extremely rare ones where your senses are flooded from the time you awake to the time you happily slip into bed. I cannot say enough about the hospitality of Ryrkaipiy, the beautiful lands that surround the village, and the wonderful people we shared time with today. Thanks as well to our teammate Victor Boyarsky for the endless translations that made it all possible!