Tag Archives: WWF

Northeast Passage: Nearing the Chukchi sea

General,

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York

File photograph of a bowhead whale. Photo: WWF/Paul Nicklen, National Geographic Stock

File photograph of a bowhead whale. Photo: WWF/Paul Nicklen, National Geographic Stock


It was a bouncy night as we pushed our way into a head wind, especially for the two of us in the bow! I have a digestive biscuit and coffee to start the watch then take an interview via satellite phone with the Guardian newspaper. Modern technology is truly amazing.
The winds settle and swing to the stern mid-shift. At 2 AM, in the midst of a beautiful sunrise, we decide to set the sails and are able to maintain 5 knots for about an hour before losing the breeze. We are seeing noticeably more bird life as we change watch and head to our bunks for some sleep.
I awaken to a great deal of activity and it seems everyone is moving about. We are in calm seas and Niklas is taking full advantage. The generator is running, fresh water is being made for the tanks, the cabin is vacuumed, people are taking showers, and we are all able to do some laundry. Soon there is clean laundry hung all over the boat to dry.
The morning watch also had some good news: they sighted a group of about 6 bowhead whales, including a mother and calf heading east. Though we seem to be in the same waters, something imperceptible has changed. Along with the whale sighting, we have the constant company of birds now as we near the edge of the Chukchi sea.
Another clue to the increased productivity of these waters is clear on the charts. From this point forward, we will encounter several small villages where Chukchi people have lived for generations. They chose these areas for access to fish and wildlife, but indigenous villages were noticeably absent from the Laptev and East Siberian seas.
This part of Chukotka is also an area of focused activity for WWF. In the next three days we will attempt landings at the villages of Ryrkaipiy and Vankarem, home of our original Polar Bear (or ‘Umky’ in Chukchi) Patrol efforts. WWF also played a role in establishing the Wrangel Island Nature Preserve to our north and continues to support their conservation efforts today.
The Chukchi sea has experienced more ice loss, more quickly, than anywhere in the Arctic. It was also one of the first places to see the direct impacts of this ice loss to people and wildlife. Walrus and polar bear began appearing on shore and at times of the year that were previously uncommon. Walrus established huge new rookeries in places where they had not been seen before.
In the shallow waters of the Chukchi sea, the sea ice ecosystem supplies the raw material for the rich benthic, or bottom-dwelling, fauna such as clams and other invertebrates. It is this bottom life that sustains bearded seals and large numbers of pacific walrus. As the sea ice has receded past the shelf and into the deep waters of the arctic basin, the walrus have abandoned the ice for land. As female walrus and calves are limited in their swimming distance, this seriously shrinks their available feeding areas. On shore they are also more prone to disturbance, stampede mortalities, harvest, and impacts from potential oil spills.
Walrus haul outs also attract polar bears that are stuck on shore. Although polar bears have little success in preying on healthy adult walrus, they can take calves. They also feed on carcasses of natural and stampede-caused mortalities. In the cases of Vankarem and Ryrkaipiy, the haul outs are also right next to the villages, causing concern for disturbing the walrus and also bringing bears right into town.
I will tell you more about the Umky Patrols, and their grass roots solutions to these problems tomorrow.

Northwest Passage: Mirages

General,

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Cameron Dueck

The first time I saw one I couldn’t believe my eyes. I checked the charts, looked through the binoculars and asked the crew to double check what I was seeing.  A small island had suddenly grown by a few hundred metres, towering high on the horizon miles away.
Then I looked in the other direction and saw more strange sights. Ice floes that wobbled and jumped. Buoys that stood taller than the mountains on the shore.  Bits of ice that stood impossibly high in the water, weaving dancing in the distance. They were mirages on the arctic horizon, and they have become an everyday part of our sailing life.
They can make navigation tricky, as they make things appear far larger and closer than they really are. A low lying island which you expect to be 10 miles away suddenly looks like a mountainous bit of land a few miles distant. Thin ice floes can suddenly look like massive icebergs, making it hard to decide in which direction to sail when you are trying to pick your way through the sea ice.
Dr Chris Pielou, our scientific advisor, told me the Novaya Zemlya Effect happens when a layer of cold air is trapped between warm air above and below it, over a large area.  Light rays become trapped in the layer: once in it, they are bent back upward if they enter the warmer air below, and are bent back downward if the enter the warm air above.
The effect was first recorded in 1596, near the island of Novaya Zemlya in the Siberian Arctic. The image of a ship appeared just above the horizon although it was known to be about 400 km away. We’ve been experiencing the same effect on nearly every sunny day. Another example of the effect is that the sun appears above the horizon earlier than the Nautical Almanac tells you it should.
So, if we tell you we’ve seen ice stacked a thousand miles high and mountains shaped like an hour glass don’t blame us, blame the cold air.

Northeast Passage: Restocking in Pevek

General,

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York

Pevek, Russia, as seen on Google Maps

Pevek, Russia, as seen on Google Maps


The winds have finally let down as I sit alone in the dark boat for my anchor watch. The outside temperature is -1 C. My ship mates are sleeping soundly after two straight days and nights of rough seas. The boat is sitting across the bay from Pevek and the town is lit up much like any modern town, except this is truly remote country. I watch the lights of a vehicle on the outskirts of the settlement. As I look across the water, I am again struck by the commonalities of northern communities across the Arctic and among northern people. Though indigenous people perfected living strategies for this region, for most of us, life in the north would be a tremendous challenge.
We dock in the early morning and meet with the local authorities. It is also a good chance to restock with any available vegetables. The store is well stocked and we buy onions, potatoes, carrots, cabbage, and even some tomatoes. In its heyday, Pevek was a city of 14,000 people. Today, it is about 4,000 and appears much more active than Tiksi. The reason is soon made clear: gold. A new gold mine is operating just south of town and in two years has already extracted 18 tons of gold we are told by the border guards.
There are no roads connected to this place, only seasonal ship access and air travel. Pevek, like many northern communities, is wholly dependent on resources from outside to maintain their fuel and commodity reserves.  Just down from where we are docked, a bulk container ship is offloading coal, adding to an already huge stockpile. New machinery and supplies for the mine are stacked all around. I wonder what Pevek will look like when the gold runs out. What and who will be left behind?
We finish our business in short order, make our farewells, and head back to sea.

Northeast Passage: No signs of life

General,

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York
After being in the ice twice now, yesterday for several hours, I am struck by what we are not seeing. Other than the odd seagull and a few small seabirds, we see no signs of life whatsoever.  In other parts of the Arctic we would see numerous seabirds and sea ducks, seals, walrus, whales, and possibly polar bears. In the coastal waters of the New Siberian Sea, we make few observations of marine mammals at all, save for two ringed seal on the 30th.
We spent the night sailing into increasingly windy conditions and I awake to a rolling boat in gale winds. Walking to the galley takes extra coordination in my half-awake state, as the boat’s movements are not predictable and can be fairly extreme. I pass on coffee.

One of Geoff York's colleagues, Hannibal, wearing the immersion suit. Photo: Neil Hamilton

One of Geoff York's colleagues, Hannibal, wearing the immersion suit. Photo: Neil Hamilton


As I come onto my watch I am instructed to don a full immersion suit. The first part of my morning will be spent on the bow, outside, looking for ice. Knowing that we have a large area of drift ice to our north, we take extreme care as we continue sailing into the night. In full survival regalia, I clip onto the lifeline and make my way forward to replace Fredrik. What a rush. Standing on the deck in the dim light with gale winds pushing the sea to foam in places is quite the way to wake up. The boat rolls and pitches in the waves and it is exhilarating to be outside in the cool wind. The suit keeps me comfortable and dry, and it is actually easier to stand the wave motion when you can see what is coming.
As the day grows lighter around 2 AM I return to the relative warmth of the wheelhouse. By 0230 we have ice in sight again – a long stream stretching out in front of our path. We head south and spend the next two hours intently looking for the myriad iceberg bits strewn across the ocean. With the whitecaps and sea foam, it is hard to tell ice from water at times. This is the last thing Anders wanted to see, and once again ice threatens the success of the expedition.
We are pushed much further south than he would like to go and there is concern the ice could trap us against the shore. Perhaps it is a gift for Anders’ birthday, or perhaps we are just lucky, but we find clear water and resume our progress to Pevek.
The boat is still rolling when I awake for my afternoon watch, but we now have land in sight. We also have company as we fall in behind a Russian ice breaking cargo ship – perhaps a glimpse at the future of these arctic waters. As we turn into the bay adjacent to Pevek, there are three ships at Anchor, and we know three left here yesterday. Winds prevent us from docking and we anchor across the water from town for a much needed night of calm water for all.
The crew immediately falls to maintenance work while the rest begin dinner and tackle their cleaning duties for the day. In the morning we will go into the port and meet with the border guards to complete the required paperwork. We also hope to talk with the manager of the Wrangel Island Nature Preserve and assess whether we should make a stop on the island.

Northeast Passage: A day on the Explorer of Sweden

General,

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York

I sit anchor watch alone tonight in the lee of Pushkaryov Island. In the tradition of the expedition, Ola held a team meeting following dinner to decide whether we should push ahead immediately in moderate seas, or to get some rest on the hook and depart at first light. No one is eager for a restless night of fighting the headwinds which now gust to 30 knots, so we will set sail again at 4 AM. I will wake Anders when it is time to make the boat ready and will try to fall asleep in my bunk before the rollercoaster begins! We hope to make Pevek in less than 32 hours and in the early morning as we have papers to arrange with the authorities and we plan to make it a short visit.
The wind whistles through the rigging and rattles the side curtains of the wheelhouse as I type. It is pitch black and we sit off a small uninhabited island. Despite sitting in a comfortable boat, we are truly on the edge of civilization here. Aid is a long way off.
What is a day on the boat like? First off, I am the 8th man of a crew that has been together since Murmansk. Ola Skinnarmo is our gregarious expedition leader. Hannibal Thorsen is his right hand man and veteran of numerous polar expeditions. He runs an outdoor school in the mountains of Sweden when not out in the wild himself. Victor Boyarsky is the head of the Russian Arctic and Antarctic Museum and a third veteran of polar land expeditions to the north and south poles. Anders Eriksson is the captain and a professional sailor who earns his living in charge of trans-ocean cargo ships when he is not lending his skills to more exotic adventures. Anders has also sailed around the world solo – twice – and in his spare time runs a small resort on an island off Brazil with his wife and daughter. Niklas Roselius is essentially our first mate, master mechanic, French trained chef, and a seasoned mariner in his own right. He will be taking the boat from Dutch Harbour, Alaska back to Sweden with a new crew. Per-Magnus Sander rounds out the sailing experienced onboard. Per owns and runs the tour company Polar Quest and is a lifelong sailor with excellent arctic credentials, and another very good cook. Last but not least is Fredrik Blomqvist the expedition videographer and photographer and a passionate off road rally racer (think Africa and Land Rover). He is responsible for producing all of the video and photography for the trip. A very experienced and impressive team and I am truly honoured to share this experience with them.

The gregarious expedition leader, Ola Skinnarmo, at the top of the Explorer's mast

The gregarious expedition leader, Ola Skinnarmo, at the top of the Explorer's mast


The Explorer is a steel boat originally designed for research. She is well rigged for sailing and motoring through a variety of conditions. The wheelhouse is mid ship, enclosed, and large. It contains a large foldout table and is the location for boat operations and most meals. It is not heated and the outside temperature since my arrival has hovered between 2 to -1. We routinely wear full long underwear and outdoor gear during meals and watches and it is common to see your breath indoors.
Below deck you enter the salon and main dining/office area. The table is usually filled with laptops, external hard drives, and camera equipment. There is one bunk in the salon and we do have oil heat in the lower compartments. The majority of berths are forward of the salon including my bunk in the bow. Aft of the salon is the galley, engine room, head, and stateroom. Space is comfortable but tight for 8 guys, but everyone is accommodating and interruptions frequent for all as people squeeze past in route to their daily routines.
We have a rotating list of daily chores from cleaning to cooking, top to bottom. Breakfast is generally muesli, cereal or oats, and is self serve. Lunch is made on rotation and is typically a big pot of soup with crackers. Dinner is also on the rotation and given the skilled cooks onboard, has been quite diverse and good – something very important for morale on long trips in cold places!
We do have hot water and can shower at least every four days – a real luxury.
It is about half past one in the morning now and the light is starting to return. The boat rocks gently in the wind as I sip my tea and type in the dark wheelhouse. The boat is quiet and I am glad to have this peaceful watch.
We pull anchor and hand off our watch at 4 AM. I try to fall asleep quickly as it will be rough shortly. I sleep well but sporadically as I learn to brace my body in the bunk to avoid falling out. As we assume our afternoon watch, it is also my turn to make lunch. Quite a challenge in a rolling and pitching boat for a novice sailor!
2 PM and we have falling water temperature, fog, and seabirds – all signs of ice. By half past 3, we are in heavy drift ice looking for a path. Everyone is quickly on deck as the boat becomes suddenly still in the ice calmed waters. We download a fresh ice map and Victor makes a phone call to see what he can learn of this unexpected ice. It turns out to be a large area of drift ice and we cannot go through, so we must turn around. As luck would have it, Victor raises a nearby Russian icebreaker which has just left Pevek. It is the ’50 years of victory’, the world’s largest nuclear-powered ice breaking ship. They advise us to head south and then make our course into Pevek. We will likely see them along the way. It will be a long night of sailing through ice-infested waters and the forecast is for gale force winds from the Northwest.

Northwest Passage: Seal hearts and other parts

General,

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Cameron Dueck
Shortly before Silent Sound set off for the Canadian Arctic last spring the region’s seal population made the headlines.  The European Union banned seal products, angering Inuit hunters and artisans and prompting Canada’s governor general Michaelle Jean to skin one of the creatures and eat a piece of its heart raw to show solidarity with the Inuit. 
As we’ve sailed through the western Arctic and now the central Arctic we’ve seen thousands of seals. In areas where we see no other wildlife we’re still certain to see a seal or two bobbing about in the water, quizzically watching us sail past. They’ve certainly livened up some tedious watches as I’ve stood at the helm.
We’ve eaten seal a few different ways on this trip. Our first taste was barbequed seal ribs, and we’ve since tried it dried and sautéed. I don’t like it dried, but it’s tasty – like liver –when it’s cooked right. I’ve also tried on some of the mitts and boots made from seal skin. The fur is deliciously soft and warm.
They’re cute, they’re harmless, and they’re a key part of the Inuit traditional diet and culture. And there are heaps of them left. The political hijacking of their seals has come up in conversation with several Inuit, and they seem pretty united in their response. Which, in brief, is “Piss off!”
One old timer who invited me into his kitchen for tea lamented the confusion over the seal clubbing ways in parts of eastern Canada and the way he and his fellow hunters dispatch their prey. “We shoot them, we don’t club them, and if those people from down south would come up here I’d show them how we  do it,” he said, nearly spilling his tea as warmed up on the issue. He also offered a few simple but drastic measures to quiet the criticism, but I’m sure he didn’t really mean them.
In Holman (aka Ulukhaktok) we watched a grandmother, her daughter and toddler granddaughter flense a pile of seals caught by the men in their family. It was bloody, dirty work, and the grandmother admitted that few of the younger generation were interested in doing it. However, there was also an every day practicality about what they were doing that both showed respect to the animals and underlined the necessity of these activities in their life.
It’s odd to see so many seals along our route, both ringed seals and bearded seals, and think that elsewhere in the world, where they know little to nothing about seals, these creatures are creating such passionate debate. By coming to the Arctic this summer and weaning myself off daily news I feel I’ve missed out on the seal debate. Instead, I’m in the home of the seals, and watching how they play an integral role in the diet and life of Inuit.

Northeast Passage: The arctic marine ecosystem

General,

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York
Days are flying by and the nights seem nonexistent as my sleep is now
partitioned to mid-morning and early evening bouts. The seas have picked up
a bit and my berth is in the bow, so any motion is exaggerated. Despite
growing up in the middle of America, I find myself quite comfortable at sea
and I sleep extremely well.
Anders and I relieve Ola and Victor and assume the watch with a fresh pot of
hot water for our morning cocoa and tea. It is just dark as we take the
wheel, though it does not last long. With each day drawing us further to the
East, we gain daylight. As the sun breaks the horizon, it looks like it
should be a spectacular day with the first clear skies in many days of
travel. The winds have also picked up nicely and swung to the southeast.
We are once again in open water, with no land or ice visible an all
directions. The crew has also remarked at the absence of marine mammals or
birds for much of their trip, except when in our near sea ice. One of the
telltale signs of nearby ice, despite dropping water temperatures, has been
the presence of seabirds. There is a reason for this beyond chance
encounter.
The arctic sea ice, along with being responsible for cooling the planet and
moderating global weather, is also the basis, the substrate, for the arctic
marine ecosystem. It is on the underside of the ice that a thriving
community exists, out of our sight. Algae and phytoplankton grow on the ice
like an inverted garden. Zooplankton thrives on this growth and is in turn
preyed upon by arctic cod. Ringed seal and sea birds chase after the fish
and polar bears complete the chain. So the sea ice is much more than a
simple platform and losing it will have profound implications beyond just
wildlife sightings.
Hannibal and Per Magnus stir below and Anders decides it is time to set the
sails. I am assigned the Genoa and we are soon quietly heeled to port and
cruising along at 8 knots. Time for me to get some rest. We should make our
next destination by dinner time tonight: Bear Island.
I awake to the sound of the engine and a bumpy ride. The winds have swung
around from the east and are now on the bow. Seas are mixed and 3-5 feet
with chop. I feel badly for those trying to sleep now!
At the close of our afternoon watch we have an island in sight and plan to
anchor in the lee for dinner. Our next planned landing will be the town of
Pevek.

Northeast Passage: Sea ice floes

General,

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York
Midnight comes again all too quickly as I find myself making some strong
coffee for our watch. A coastal freighter has appeared on our radar nearby,
a cargo ship that plies the Lena river and shallow near shore waters between
Tiksi and Vladivostock. It is the only ship we have seen since Tiksi, but as
the summer ice continues its rapid retreat, more ships from countries other
than Russia will demand passage on these seas.
A little after 2 AM we again notice the water temperature dropping quickly,
this time down to -0.8 C. We also begin to see birds and soon after a floe
of drift ice. It stretches across from our north and forces us to slow and
turn south to seek the edge. It was not on the satellite map and while no
match for an ice breaking ship, it is the type of arctic shipping hazard
that could prove disastrous for lesser vessels.  It takes the remainder of
our shift and some of the next to get through and around this obstacle. It
is a pleasant distraction as seas are calm and the visibility good.
Despite the fact that we are losing ice at a rapid rate, there is still a
great deal of it in any given year. As it melts and breaks apart, streams of
drift ice are torn from the main pack and aimlessly wander the northern
seas. This ice is highly mobile and very difficult to track.
This is why WWF is actively pursuing shipping safety on a number of fronts.
We are working with governments and policy bodies to influence the creation
of new arctic governance regimes that would in part set the rules for
international shipping. We are simultaneously pursing regulations around
shipping in the Arctic including compulsory pilotage in some waters and
designation of sensitive marine areas. Lastly we are working to raise
awareness on the current lack of capacity to respond to emergencies in the
Arctic both in terms of rescue and oil spill response/mitigation. A major
shipwreck in the Arctic would not only result in the loss of human life, it
could be an ecological disaster.
We have an opportunity to manage these developments in the Arctic safely,
sustainably, and with proper precautionary planning. With a solid governance
framework and conservation first planning, we can balance the needs of
people and nature.
Speaking of the needs of people, and yes, this will be a recurring theme, it
is time to eat again and I have volunteered to help Niklas in the galley.
Tonight will be a gourmet meal starting with whitefish gravlax (cured on the
boat), cabbage salad, with reindeer and potatoes from Tiksi. I have also
used the last of our apples for a pie and we find a box of vanilla custard
to accompany – quite a dinner! Most of the meals onboard are quite simple and
based on dry goods. Cooking also depends greatly on the sea state and we
know we will have some nights ahead with much less civility.

Northeast Passage: The New Siberian Islands

General,

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York
Waking for the midnight watch is quickly becoming a comfortable routine. Using our satellite phone to upload this blog is another story. I continue to struggle with technical issues in linking my PC to the phone, technology on the high seas and in the remote Arctic is never easy nor works as planned! Fortunately, Ola has a tested system on the boat that continues to work well and I will have to rely on his help to update you on our progress.
In the last four hours, the water temperature has dropped from 2.8 down to 0C. Captain Anders is concerned we may be approaching some drift ice, but there is none yet in sight. We spend the next two hours peering into the dim light of evening with extra care. The seas are also becoming calm and by 1 AM we are in some fog.
Dawn comes around 3 AM and we soon sight our destination: the southernmost of the New Siberian Islands that separate the Laptev from the East Siberian Sea. There is grounded ice all along the shore and 100 m from shore. At half past three we can see the Russian weather station on shore and a few lights on buildings. We wake Ola and prepare to drop anchor. The fog comes and goes all morning.
Niklas appears from below and quickly sets the table for a light breakfast and coffee as the rest of the crew awake and prepare for a landing.  Seven of us shuttle in to explore the station and the captain stays onboard. With ice around and fog, you cannot leave the main boat unattended.
The scene around the settlement is one common throughout the Arctic. Rusty fuel drums are piled all around, representing many years of accumulation. Several rusted vehicles in various states of disrepair lie scattered on the beach and up the hillside along with various generators and miscellaneous discarded items and scrap steel. You never know what you may be able to salvage from broken equipment. There is no store, and resupply can be months away, so you tend to keep everything. It makes sense in such a remote area, but is visually startling to the unitiated.
All is quiet as we stroll up the hillside towards a cluster of weather-worn buildings, old vehicles, and more drums. It is not long before the station dogs grow leery of our approach and come barking. We know that the owners will soon follow and are glad to have Victor with us to make introductions! In short order we are sitting inside the largest of the buildings in a common dining area as sleepy members of the station crew appear from various rooms. Having visitors is quite a surprise and we are warmly welcomed. After explaining our trip we are invited to a feast of freshly baked bread, butter, smoked whitefish caught and prepared on the island, and locally picked and pickled mushrooms. Accompanied by some strong Russian tea, it was a fantastic experience and confirmed that Northern hospitality is alive and well in the Sakha Republic.
Travelling to new places, meeting people, and experiencing local cultures – I come away with how much we all share in common. Our humanity, daily lives, and aspirations are much more alike than not, despite the differences in language and customs. I feel completely comfortable in this remotest part of the Arctic, with people I cannot understand in words, but whose acts of hospitality are universal.
When I think of all of the problems the world faces today, from rising temperatures, rising sea level, and looming scarcities of basic resources, I am somewhat comforted to reaffirm this common bond among people. The kindness of our island friends renews my hope that we can yet come together across nations to solve some of our most pressing concerns. We are incredibly resourceful and compassionate when at our best! As we depart for the boat, we receive one last generosity as our hosts ask that we take any fish from their net which is set nearby. We will have fresh whitefish for dinner and continue our travels into the East Siberian Sea!

Northeast Passage: Open water

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This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York
Midnight and it is time for my first watch with Captain Anders. The crew rotates in the wheelhouse every 4 hours and we have the quiet early morning and mid day shifts. As I am already jetlagged from travel, it is actually a good chance to start a new schedule. The night is overcast and we are cruising through light swells that gently rock the boat. The boat is heading NE towards the New Siberian Islands that separate the Laptev and Chukchi Seas. It is twilight and we are just far enough from shore that it is invisible to our passing. The morning passes without incident and I am soon asleep in my forward berth after we hand off the watch at 4 AM.
I awake to the smell of lunch and stagger up top for a coffee before my next watch at noon. The water temperature has dropped in the past 7 hours from 5.8 to 2.5 C. We soon see why as a patch of drift ice appears off the bow and to the north. We are also back in the clearer, cooler waters of the Laptev and away from the fresh water influence of the Lena River. The bits of ice quickly fades and we are back to cruising open water.
Open water as far as the eye can see in all directions. This is remarkably different from my first boat trip in arctic waters during the summer of 1991. I was working a small research vessel in the Beaufort sea north of Alaska looking at the use of near shore waters by adult and juvenile fish. The pack ice was never more than 3 miles from shore and impeded our ability to access certain areas, even trapping us in a bay for 17 days. Now the Beaufort sea is open water much like the Laptev and other arctic seas. These same Beaufort waters, once inaccessible to even small boats, are now undergoing seismic exploration for oil and gas, and active planning for offshore development. Access is no longer an issue. Good news for industry hoping to exploit these new regions, but bad news for the wildlife and people that rely on the sea ice ecosystem as their habitat fades away.
Well it is my turn to make dinner tonight, so I had better start making preparations to feed this hungry crew of 8 guys: whitefish from Tiksi in a red curry sauce. As the temperature remains cold, appetites should remain high!