Tag Archives: students on ice

A lifetime in two weeks

29 July, 2014From the fieldCanada, greenland, students on iceuser

Tat, Sue and Paninnguaq in Torngat Mountains National Park, Labrador, Canada.

WWF took part in the 2014 “Students on Ice” expedition from Arctic Canada to Greenland, both sponsoring students, and helping give the students useful skills. WWF staff member Sue Novotny blogged from the expedition.
It feels like we wrapped a lifetime of experiences into 2 weeks. We bobbed in the water with a polar bear, hiked mountains few people have visited, saw the evidence of climate change first hand, heard the stories of elders, and made lifelong friends.
Now we’ve all headed home, but both students and staff are keeping the expedition spirit going with the busy sharing of photos, videos and well-wishes on Facebook. I spoke with our WWF-sponsored students one last time before we parted ways (but hopefully not for long!).

What was your favourite part of the expedition?

Paninnguaq:
I really loved to see Canadian people [who] really look like Greenlanders. I really saw the connection between our people, and I’m surprised that we aren’t connected that much as people.
Tat:
When we were on the land exploring Greenland. It was very exciting to perform [in the community centre in Nanortalik].

Excerpt from “This is who we are”, written and performed by Tat on the expedition

It’s a beautiful scenery
I live in the arctic, complicated, beautiful
…We go hunting often going with no flow
Loving, caring, all we know
Inuk pride, broken lives, fixing struggles
Adapting, catching, nothing but survival rights
No hate, living cycles, crafts and arts
This is who we are.

Highlights from Greenland, including Tat’s performance:

What did you learn?

Tat:
I learned that there are many opportunities if you step in.
Paninnguaq:
I learned a lot about nature, vegetation and birds in Canada, but also in my own country.

What’s next?

Tat:
I’m probably going to school.
Paninnguaq:
To get more life experience. I want to be able to write books. This helped me to think about Greenland’s future and how it can look.

Sea ice stories

24 July, 2014From the fieldCanada, greenland, Last Ice Area, students on iceuser

Students on Ice, checking out ice. Photo: Sue Novotny / WWF

WWF was part of a “Students on Ice” expedition from Arctic Canada to Greenland, both sponsoring students, and helping give the students useful skills. WWF staff member Sue Novotny is blogging from the expedition.
While talking with the students about climate change and the future of sea ice, I asked them to raise their hands if they saw sea ice for the first time on this expedition. Over half of the 85 students were new to sea ice, and to the Arctic.
Along with them, I saw sea ice for the first time last week – hundreds of bergy bits at dusk. We’ve since encountered much more ice, from enormous icebergs to calving glaciers to a thin stip of fast ice under the water at high tide, seeming to glow like a modern art installation.
Then I asked who lived in a place where the sea freezes up every winter – 25 more hands. These students from northern Canada and Greenland shared their stories about life with sea ice.

One student said it’s a difficult time to be away from home, because it’s when his family goes out to the floe edge to hunt.

Another talked about jumping a snowmobile across cracks in the ice during the summer breakup. (I asked if this was dangerous. The answer: it’s fun!)

And another said moving his snowmobile from the ice onto the land is a sign that spring is coming.

Sea ice is clearly part of life and full of life. And viewed from satellites over time, it almost looks like a living thing.

This video elicited some gasps from the audience. Within their lifetimes, both the extent of the ice and the amount of multi-year ice has shrunk dramatically. What ice is left is pushed by prevailing currents to northern Greenland and Canada – the “Last Ice Area“. Ice models project that this will be the only place sea ice remains in the summer by 2040.
Many of these students will go on to be scientists, advocates, and leaders in Greenland and Canada. They’ll be making decisions on the Arctic’s future. If they want to focus on regions that will be important to the Arctic in the decades to come and beyond, the Last Ice Area is a good place to start.

Putting the green in Greenland – and the rap in rapport

23 July, 2014From the fieldgreenland, indigenous people, students on iceuser

WWF is part of a “Students on Ice” expedition from Arctic Canada to Greenland, both sponsoring students, and helping give the students useful skills. WWF staff member Sue Novotny is on board, and is sending blogs about the expedition.
After four days exploring Labrador, southern Greenland seems both familiar and new to the students. The mountains are more jagged, icebergs are far more frequent, and valleys have turned to glaciers. But as we rounded the corner of a fjord, a sight new to almost everyone on board – Greenland’s ice cap, rising almost as high as the enormous mountains.
When Students on Ice visited this site five years ago, the glacier was calving directly into the water. Today, we hiked about a kilometer from shore to the glacier’s edge. The retreat has been so rapid that the area uncovered by ice is still scrubbed free of vegetation.
Our next stop, “Paradise Valley”, is one of the few places in Greenland where trees can be found. The plants here are now familiar – willow and birch – but far more like shrubs than the tiny plants we saw in Labrador. Paninnguaq (the WWF student from Greenland) was excited to find a much larger piece of birch than she’s seen in her hometown of Sisimiut, above the Arctic Circle. She’s now busy whittling it down to create a traditional Greenlandic toy.
Finally, we dock in Nanortalik, Greenland’s southernmost town. In Greenlandic, the name means “place of the polar bears”, but there are no bears here today, just a collection of colourful little houses on a rocky landscape. Culturally, the northern students feel at home here. Despite the occasional language barrier, the students traded performances with the local teenagers, from rap to Inuit games, throat singing and drum dancing, and Greenlandic rock. Tat (the WWF student from Nunavut) has been writing his own rap songs in English and Inuktitut, and performed publicly for the very first time for the Students on Ice. His second performance was to an appreciative crowd in Nanortalik’s youth centre. It’s good to see Inuit youth sharing their culture like this, maintaining ties stretching back thousands of years.

Torngat memories and memorials

22 July, 2014From the fieldCanada, indigenous people, students on iceuser

Moravian band welcomes the Students on Ice ship to Labrador. Photo: Sue Novotny

WWF is part of a “Students on Ice” expedition from Arctic Canada to Greenland, both sponsoring students, and helping give the students useful skills. WWF staff member Sue Novotny is on board, and is sending blogs about the expedition.
Traditionally, ships visiting this part of Labrador would be met with an incongruous sight – a brass band dressed in traditional Inuit clothing. The bands are an artifact of Moravian missionaries who came to the region in the late 1700s. According to the staff of Torngat Mountains National Park, it’s been decades since these bands welcomed a ship. But today our zodiacs arrived at basecamp to trumpets, horns and trombones playing Moravian songs unchanged for over 100 years.
Torngat’s basecamp is home to researchers, park managers, bear guards and visitors. Paninnguaq, our WWF scholarship winner from Sisimiut, Greenland, shared some of her highlights from basecamp:
“I loved that it looked like home. Mountainous, and the same vegetation. But [home doesn’t have] ice blocks on the shore. char

I got to use an ice table for lunch [fresh char and bannock, cooked by elders on the beach]. I loved that we went to a waterfall to get water for our bottles. And to hear elders talk about how they were moved from their communities. It was very emotional. We really understood what it had been like.”
Few people get a chance to visit Canada’s northern parks, and I doubt many have been welcomed so warmly, by so many people. Even fewer have seen what we’ve seen over the past few days.
We made a solemn visit to the remote village of Killiniq, left abandoned in 1978 by forced relocation of its residents.
We climbed a mountain that hadn’t been climbed in the memories of any of the elders we met, for a view of the landscape that hasn’t been seen for untold years. And as the brass band played the ship off, perhaps another first – a rainbow appeared, and at the end, a mountaintop inukshuk. A perfect way to say goodbye to Canada before sailing to Greenland.

An Arctic “melting pot”

21 July, 2014From the field, Polar bearsconflict, polar bears, students on iceuser

WWF is part of a “Students on Ice” expedition from Arctic Canada to Greenland, both sponsoring students, and helping give the students useful skills. WWF staff member Sue Novotny is on board, and is sending blogs about the expedition.
Komaktaviq Fjord, Labrador. Torngat Mountains National Park
Here on the Labrador coast we are seeing and hearing of the mixing of nature that’s beginning to occur with climate change. fur
First we see signs of polar bears – they’re not showing themselves today but the evidence is everywhere. Within a half hour hike, we come across a napping spot here, some fresh scat there, and a tuft of fur.
In the Torngat Mountains, where the bears far outnumber people, visitors are strongly advised to hire one of the local Inuit bear guards. The guards know the region inside and out, and are experienced in spotting bears, reading their behaviour, and scaring them away long before they can approach a person. Each time we set foot on land, the guards precede us, scouting the hills.
It’s a place that is changing rapidly, says one of the guards from the Torngat base. Armed with a rifle, rubber bullets and a bear banger, he accompanies hikers out on the land all summer long. He’s seeing black bears, moose and more southern birds in greater numbers, ever further north. They’ve also observed polar bears catching fish in much the same way grizzlies do.

With the g guard uards keeping lookout, we picked our way to the top of a deceptively steep mountain. Happily, neither black bears nor polar bears seem interested in tangling with our group of 130 people.From our vantage point on top of the mountain, we could see for who knows how many kilometres in every direction – but no bears in sight.

Where polar bears in town are a ho-hum experience

16 July, 2014From the field, Polar bearsconflict, polar bears, students on iceuser

Tatega, Pond Inlet student sponsored by WWF

Tatega, or Tat, is one of two WWF scholarship winners on the 2014 Students on Ice Arctic expedition currently making its way toward Greenland by boat. He is a high school student in the northern Canadian community of Pond Inlet, deep in the Arctic, fringing the Last Ice Area.
He’s currently far to the south of his home, in Torngat Mountains National Park, Labrador. Signs of polar bears are everywhere here. We’ve found countless piles of scat, a lemming warren torn apart by a hungry bear, and the skeletons of seals dragged onto the beach.
Today, we encountered two polar bears in the fuzzy flesh – luckily, from the safe distance of our ship. It was the first bear viewing for most students, but Tat is no stranger to these Arctic icons.
“[We see them] really often [in Pond Inlet]. When we go on the ice, we often see one at the floe edge .”
Do they ever come into town?
“Yeah, in summertime, but not very often.”
What happens?
“When polar bears try to come into town, the people in town make it run away. The town talks about it on the radio and someone scares it away. It happens once in a while.”

What’s life like on an Arctic expedition?

7 February, 2014From the fieldpolar bears, students on iceuser

Our favourite moment: When we had an extremely inquisitive polar bear swimming around the boat while anchored at Bylot Island. That was a very special moment that had all aboard spellbound. Photo: Pascale Otis / Students on Ice

What did you eat while on expedition?

Food is very important on a boat. We all take turns in the galley and most people are actually surprised by our selection of food onboard Arctic Tern I. Fresh meats, fruit and vegetables are purchased locally when available and “a little bit of everything” is how I would describe our stock of dried and canned goods. If you’re really worried about running out of freshies, we have a great selection of freeze-dried meat (beef, chicken, pork and shrimp), grow our own herbs and spice things up with fresh sprouts!

Favourite meal 2012: Clive’s muskox meatballs
Favourite meal 2013: Grant’s Arctic Char

What were your favourite moments?

Grant Redvers:

We learned how to prepare Arctic Char for drying.

When we had an extremely inquisitive polar bear swimming around the boat while anchored at Bylot Island. That was a very special moment that had all aboard spellbound.
Learning how to prepare Arctic Char for drying, then eating it of course!
Sailing uncharted waters, discovering seldom (or possibly never) visited anchorages on the coast of Baffin Island.
Seeing Orca in the wild, observing the power and speed of these amazing predators as they hunted narwhal.
The numerous interactions we had with locals in every community. This is always a highlight of any trip in the north; receiving such warm welcomes, generous help, learning more about the challenges faced by northerners and gaining some insight into their rich community spirit.

Pascale Otis:
We see so many amazing things during our expeditions that it is truly hard to choose our favourite moments. But here are a few things that really stand out:

Seeing polar bears, walruses and other Arctic animals in their wild habitats
Climbing to the top of a mountain to get a 360º view of the rugged landscape
Exploring remote areas that are uncharted
Having whales swimming under the boat
Meeting the locals and sharing country food
Sailing past gigantic icebergs
Filming never before captured images
Swimming with narwhal
Kayaking amongst bergy bits with the midnight sun shining bright
… and simply sailing in the most amazing places on Earth!

How can YOU get involved?

Follow the Arctic Tern’s journey online at arctictern.org. We will continue to post photos and videos to this site and on our blog.
We also invite you to come and meet the boat and crew when we visit communities – our itinerary will be posted prior to the 2014 expedition so check back for updates!
The Arctic Tern is part of Students on Ice, an award winning organization offering educational expeditions to the Arctic and Antarctic, fostering a new understanding and respect for the planet. Visit studentsonice.com to learn more and join an SOI expedition!
This critical five-year mission to assess the changing Arctic environments would not be possible without the support of our partners. Visit wwf.ca to learn more about WWF’s conservation work in the field through initiatives such as Arctic Tern I, as well as across Canada and around the world.
Together, we can build a future in harmony with nature.

The Arctic by ship – what we learned about change

28 January, 2014From the fieldindigenous people, narwhal, oil and gas, sea ice, students on iceuser

Orca, Tremblay Sound.© Pascale Otis / Students on Ice

Development is increasing

Just in the time we have been sailing in west Greenland and the eastern Canadian Arctic, we have seen a large increase in shipping associated with resource development (mining and oil and gas exploration).

Hunting is more difficult

Hunters spoke to us about changes in the migration timing and pathways of many species, including caribou, narwhal and polar bear.

Less sea ice, unpredictable weather

Both scientific and anecdotal evidence clearly shows a reduction in summer sea ice in the Arctic. Although it is difficult for us to see this trend from just a few seasons sailing, long term monitoring, and stories from elders show that this is a very real manifestation of climate change. Over the short term that we have observed, from season to season, sea ice cover and weather patterns have proved to be more erratic, and more difficult to predict.

More ship traffic

This year, about 30 small yachts tried to transit the Northwest Passage (compared to 2 in 2006)! Although reliable commercial shipping through the passage is still some time away in the Canadian Arctic, there has been a marked increase in commercial traffic through Russian waters in recent years. With such an increase in traffic issues like search and rescue, pollution control is of key concern.

New species are moving north

This year, we filmed orcas in the north predating on narwhal… something that had never been filmed before! Although this is thought to have occurred for a number of years, it is still a poorly understood species interaction that might be related to climate change and reducing sea ice, allowing orcas to extend their range. We have heard similar stories of Pacific salmon being caught in the eastern Canadian Arctic.

A small ship in the big Arctic

21 January, 2014From the fieldstudents on iceuser

The Arctic Tern I, © Students on Ice / Pascale Otis

A small vessel allows close interaction with communities. Arriving on a small yacht (as opposed to by plane, or sailing in on a large ship) instantly signals to communities that you have made a big effort to visit. We have found that small boats, although more and more common in the north, still create a real interest with people in every town we visit. A small boat provides an environment that both youth and elders appear comfortable and happy to visit (and possibly work on in the future). Arctic Tern has been a great facilitator for meeting the locals, sharing stories and having a laugh as we sit around the table over a hot coffee!

We can spend more time on individual projects, for a lot less cost, compared to larger expedition ships that typically have multiple projects sharing time and resources, and a very inflexible schedule.

We can access shallow coastal waters, exploring areas of the coast where larger ships generally don’t sail.

Doing anything in the north requires either a helicopter/plane or boat to go anywhere. A small yacht allows us to operate autonomously, providing a floating research platform, film platform and comfortable living for all aboard!

What are the challenges of piloting a small ship in the Arctic?

To stay safe while sailing the Arctic in a small vessel, the crew pays close attention to the elements.

The weather is a daily obsession aboard, and one of the main factors determining when we start and end the season, and when we move the boat.

We track sea ice cover very closely in the Spring. We can’t cross the Labrador Sea and Davis Strait, or get to remote northern communities, until the sea ice has melted or broken out. During the summer we constantly monitor ice charts to keep track on drifting pack ice and areas with a high density of icebergs. Ice is obviously a constant risk in the north that governs every decision.

Sailing north in spring, daylight hours increase rapidly, making our job progressively a lot easier – we can see most ice (unless it’s foggy). Conversely, sailing south at the end of the season, it gets dark quickly. Combined with the poor weather, this is a key factor determining when we move the boat, as there can still be a large number of icebergs around in late summer.

Studying the Arctic by ship

14 January, 2014From the fieldLast Ice Area, polar bears, students on iceuser

Arctic Tern I is a polar expedition vessel acquired by the Students on Ice Foundation in partnership with WWF to provide a safe, environmentally friendly, cost effective, and versatile platform for education, research and media projects in the Arctic. In summer 2013, Arctic Tern I headed to the eastern Canadian Arctic and on the first of a five-year mission to assess biodiversity in this important and fast-changing part of the world, and contribute to constructive and collaborative solutions for a sustainable future.
Polar sailors and scientists Grant Redvers and Pascale Otis share their experiences and photos from the journey, in the first of a four-part series. All photos are courtesy Pascale Otis / Students on Ice.
What type of research did you conduct in the eastern Canadian Arctic and what did you discover?

The Arctic Tern I is a great platform for scientific research. We can spend large amounts of time in one area and even access remote places that would be out of reach to larger ships.
In 2013, the crew of Arctic Tern I set sail for the North with a project from the Canadian Wildlife Service on our hands. We completed offshore bird surveys, which meant counting every bird that we encountered while crossing to Greenland and also in the Canadian Arctic. As we reached the northern parts of Baffin Island, we sailed close to two Thick-Billed Murre colonies and took high-resolution photos. These would be later used to estimate the number of breeding pairs nesting on the cliffs.

Also on our busy agenda: banding 20 Murres on Bylot Island with special geolocator tags. These will allow scientists to track where the birds are going in the wintertime. It was hard work climbing the cliffs and catching the birds, but all worth it!

We had the privilege of joining scientists while they were tagging orcas in Tremblay Sound near the community of Pond Inlet. The GPS tags placed at the base of the dorsal fin of 6 adult orcas will allow the scientists to follow their movements for the next few months. We know very little about these whales, so the information recovered from this study will surely be extremely valuable.
What is a typical day onboard Arctic Tern I?
There’s really no such thing as a typical day onboard any sailboat! We always try to plan in advance, but our schedule is usually very flexible.

Every day is full of surprises, as we never know when and where we’ll see something to add to our growing list of once-in-a-lifetime-opportunities. Perhaps a polar bear will come swimming around the boat this morning… so of course we’ll probably put off lifting the anchor for a couple hours and set up our cameras on deck instead!
Depending on the project, the crew of Arctic Tern I can take on various roles from sailors to filmmakers, photographers and scientists. We have strong scientific backgrounds, but we also work in the media quite a bit.
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2012 expedition to the Last Ice Area aboard the Arctic Tern