This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York

In the middle of the Bering Sea, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, two ships cross paths. Once again I have a ship on radar right at the end of my watch. This vessel is using the new AIS, or automated identification system, as does the Explorer. AIS lets other vessels know who you are and can also give information on the current routing and even purpose of the vessel. This one is a large commercial trawler heading north, over 200 feet long and very modern – the Starbound.

We hail the ship and ask for weather information to compare with what we have already received. The captain of the trawler is more than a little surprised to see our relatively small sailboat way out here and southbound. His first question is to ask where in the world we are coming from. Anders quickly replies “Sweden, via the Northeast Passage”. He wishes us well only to hail again shortly after with a few more questions. He has internet onboard and has already discovered our expedition web page – technology is amazing!

Our friendly exchange with Starbound reminds me of the recently approved Arctic Fishery Management Plan (FMP). This was a landmark decision where conservation groups and the fishing industry agreed to use a conservation first approach to commercial fishing in the US Arctic. The Arctic FMP prohibits the expansion of commercial fishing in federal arctic waters until researchers gather sufficient information on the arctic marine environment to prevent adverse impacts of commercial fishing on the ecosystem.
Implementation of the Arctic FMP lays down a new standard for planning resource development in the Arctic in a precautionary way. It bars resource exploitation until we know enough about the Arctic to allow safe and sustainable development to proceed. It protects what we have now while we gather the necessary information to plan future activities. I can only hope other industries follow this leadership.
The Arctic is home to many species of marine mammals, seabirds, shorebirds, fish, shellfish, crustaceans and other invertebrates. The Arctic is also a fragile ecosystem, with relatively short, simple food chains. It is slow to recover from disturbance and injury. Effects from even a small commercial fishery in the Arctic could have substantial impacts that ripple throughout the ecosystem.
The arctic acean is also the epicentre of climate change impacts, showing an average temperature increase almost four times the global average. Rapidly rising temperatures, reduced summer sea ice, ocean acidification, and reduced benthic productivity associated with climate change could have serious implications for any prospective fisheries.
The Arctic gives us the opportunity to do it right, to learn from past mistakes. If we take a precautionary approach, we can plan for sustainable fishing that does not damage the overall health of this fragile ecosystem and will provide both food and employment opportunities into the future.
As my watch ends, I can finally see our destination on the edge of our electronic navigation chart. The seas have calmed to gentle swells and the winds are slow and variable.

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York

South to Alaska! We head out into a beautifully calm Gulf of Anadyr and the current is going our way, giving us a small boost in speed. This is a perfect way to start our trip across the Bering Sea. Our planned route will take us just south of St Mathew Island and along the edge of the continental shelf that separates Russia from Alaska.
The boat is strikingly different with only three crew members onboard. Instead of tight quarters for eight, we now have room to roam and spread out a bit. It is noticeably quieter and we feel a sense of freedom as we head back to sea with the last of our tight deadlines behind us. The atmosphere is instantly relaxed and happy with two men who feel more at home on the sea than land, and one that could easily learn this sailing lifestyle.
Fulmars keep constant company with the boat, soaring and darting around the main mast. The seas remain calm into the evening as we ease into our new watch schedule. Anders will keep the night and midday watch and I move to the 8-12 time slots. Niklas takes over the captain’s room since he will stay on the longest.
The sea is virtually still when I take over the watch at 8 PM. Niklas gives me a few pointers on the radar and reviews the basic duties I used to share with Anders: hourly check of the engine systems and basic navigation. I periodically poke my head up through the hatch to get a better view and enjoy the evening air. I can hear the fulmars still following along with us in the silence of the night.
At about half past ten, I have a ship on the radar and quickly make visual contact with binoculars. She is abeam the port side and will pass well behind our route. As I scan towards the bow I pick up a second ship at the one o’clock position and not yet on the radar. It is initially hard to discern her course or direction, so I wait patiently to see if it gets closer. The two most dangerous things for sailboats such as the Explorer are shorelines (things you can hit) and other boats (things that can hit you). Luckily the night is clear and we have excellent radar onboard to help my novice eyes. Even though we are heading south into somewhat busier seas, rescue is still far away and the waters quite cold.
With a ship on both sides of me, I suddenly hear a loud “swoosh!” and a “thunk”. It sounds like something has come up alongside the boat so I quickly pop up for a look and only to see nothing. I look around the dark cabin and suddenly worry we may be passing through fishing grounds and have tangled in some gear. Great I thought, my first solo night watch and now this mysterious noise and in the middle of ship traffic. I finally notice an odd bulge in the pile of life vests sitting in the port locker. One of the self inflating vests had gone off by chance – mystery solved!

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York
The wind and seas ease as we approach Anadyr. We pick up a local pilot as we enter the long bay that leads to the city. He’s a friendly retired captain who spent 20 years in charge of big ships along Russia’s eastern and northern coasts. Anders takes the wheel so I go down and cook up a hearty brunch of potatoes, eggs, and a mystery ham-like product we picked up in Pevek. It actually turns out to be very good and the pilot happily shares our meal. I wish I could speak Russian so I could truly visit with this interesting man.
Like so many, I squandered early opportunities to learn a second language. Living in such a large country, and having few chances to travel abroad in my youth, I truly did not understand the importance and utility of being multi-lingual. So I studied a little German, a little Spanish, and a little Chinese, but mastered none of these languages. I have very few regrets in my life, but this is definitely one.
In my work with WWF, I routinely interact with colleagues and partners from around the world. It is not uncommon for my European and Russian colleagues to speak three and sometimes four languages with relative ease. I envy the ability to communicate more across cultures. We were so very fortunate on this trip to have Victor Boyarsky to translate, but there is something you miss if you are unable to participate in casual conversations.
There is much I would have liked to ask people as we transited the Russian coast. Questions about their day to day lives and changes they have witnessed over the past decade. While it was a lifetime experience to sit with Vladilen in Ryrkaipiy and Fedor in Vankarem, it would have been even more so to have conversed with them in this setting. Much like politics, language is an artificial barrier separating people from more fully understanding one another.
Back on the boat, everyone is awake and 5 of the crew are madly packing their bags after spending over a month at sea. Ola, Hannibal, Per-Magnus, Fredrik, and Victor will spend one last night aboard the Explorer before checking into the Hotel Chukotka in Anadyr for the weekend. We have made arrangement to clear customs early tomorrow morning and they will have to have themselves and all of their gear off the boat when the agents arrive.
Anadyr sits back in a protected bay and is a very interesting town. As we motor into the dock, I am surprised and happy to see a new development going in across from the city – wind power! A half dozen brand new turbines dot the hillside, one still under construction. Approaching the dock you see clean, brightly colored buildings, several quite modern in design, and a stunning all-wood Russian Orthodox church with gilded domes. Even the cranes on the dock are getting fresh paint and the town seems busy with activity and new construction.
This is the home of Roman Aboramovich, the well-known owner of Chelsea FC, the English Premier League football team. Along with supporting renovations in some of the Chukchi communities, Mr Aboramovich has invested heavily in Anadyr, and it shows. The streets are paved and the grocery store is as modern and well stocked as you would see in any large city, though the population here only approaches 13,000. There is a sense of optimism and pride in this place.
Following a quick look around town, we buy a few fresh ingredients and have our farewell dinner on the boat. Bags are stacked everywhere as we share thanks and stories from the trip thus far. The morning will come much too early!

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York

Life at 20 degrees … I fell asleep last night to a boat pitching against a head wind – raising me up and then dropping me in my bunk. Luckily for me, I am very good at sleeping! I awoke this morning curled comfortably on the wall of my berth.
The usual morning orientation is a bit more exaggerated when you are under sail and leaning to port a steady 20 degrees, with an occasional 25 degree roll thrown in just to keep you on your toes. Walking up to the salon is more of a chore as everything has shifted and the gear rack, with clothes normally hanging vertically against the wall, has become a maze of coats, shoes, and dangling immersion suits. Each step is taken only after securing the next handhold. We are making a steady 8 knots in 6 to 8 foot seas under blue skies. We pass Provideniya and head out across the Gulf of Anadyr.
The coastline is mountainous and long fjords are becoming common. The hillsides are mostly rock with only light scrub vegetation. I expected more marine activity as we head south, but see no other vessels today. Shore based border guards have contacted us twice in the last 12 hours to verify our identity, much more active monitoring than the earlier part of our trip.
Fulmars keep us company all day as they cruise low along the wave tops and play in the eddy of our sails. The afternoon sun warms the cabin and waves wash across the deck. The sound of the sea is relaxing as I think about the past several days and I am filled with hope.

Despite all of the bad news in the world, despite the looming threats of a rapidly changing climate, this voyage has renewed my sense of hope for the future. Meeting the people of northern Russia reminded me of our common aspirations and goals. We share a universal need for clean air, fresh water, and wild resources from the land and sea. I wonder too if we could communicate directly more often, and not through the lens of our governments, how much better people would understand this commonality? Sharing tea with people in this remote part of the world has renewed my faith in humanity. There is still so much that is good in this world.
The explosion of wildlife in the Chukchi and Bering seas has also buoyed my spirits. Travelling through huge areas of still untamed wild spaces, witnessing that, at least in some parts of the Arctic, wildlife is yet abundant, people still live from the land and sea, and ecosystems appear intact, renews my faith in the resilience of the natural world.
We still have the chance to conserve this unique region, not just in Russia, but across the Arctic, while still meeting the needs of people and developing resources in a precautionary, sustainable manner. Saving the Arctic, such a key regulator of the global environment, we can also help save the landscapes and wildlife in our own back yards. The wild lands, wildlife, clean air, and fresh water that ultimately sustain us all.

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York

The surrounding landscape is mountainous and beautiful. New snow covers the higher elevation in what is called “termination dust” back home in Anchorage. I mix up some excellent Swedish hot chocolate to keep warm while I pass the time in the cool, quiet wheelhouse.
The sun slowly rises over an abandoned border guard post on the south side of the Cape. An old tower sits empty and a broken radar mast swings with the morning breeze. Rusting 55 gallon drums lie in piles around the broken down facility. A few short years ago and you could have seen similar abandoned radar stations along the Alaskan coast, though the US military has finally taken action to begin dismantling and cleaning up the sites. 55 gallon drums are so common in the Arctic they are referred to as “tundra daisies” – a sad legacy of past exploits. I can only hope we have learned some hard lessons as we again look at developing areas in the Arctic both on and offshore.
I rouse Anders at 2 AM and we pull the anchor and begin heading to our next planned stop at the village of Lorena. I fall asleep thinking of the shower I plan to take in the morning before my next shift. It has been a few days!
I wake up at 9 AM to conversations and activity below deck – something is up and I assume it is an interesting wildlife sighting. As I grab my clothes, I learn otherwise. We have been ordered to drop anchor and prepare for boarding by a Russian coast guard vessel – definitely not on our agenda. Victor is clearly unhappy and a little bit concerned as he readies all of our paperwork. We are boarded and searched by two polite, but quite serious young men. All of our paperwork is checked out and each of is compared to our passport photos. We wait below for hours before we are cleared to continue, however, we are no longer allowed to make any landings other than Anadyr.
Victor is the most disappointed as he really wanted to visit several of the local towns and make connections with the people in this region. So did I, but I also have come to expect the unexpected and can roll with the slight change of plans. It is simply a paperwork issue and is a reminder that despite the sense of globalisation and free trade, countries are still very controlled, and sometimes, closed to outside visitors. We are glad to have had such wonderful visits earlier in the trip.
Our distraction with the coast guard is soon forgotten as we sight first one then numerous spouts on the horizon. We are just south of Loreno, an active whaling community, and we can see why they chose this resource. There must be over 100 grey whales in the area as we sit and watch them blow and fluke for at least an hour. The sheer abundance of animals and productivity of this region is incredible!

Seas are calm and we take advantage to prepare a nice dinner. Tonight we will share chilli, with fresh baked focaccia (it turns out the engine room is the perfect temperature for proofing yeast breads), and a mixed berry crisp for dessert. The winds start to pick up again as the evening progresses.

This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York

“Climate change is not something which will happen in the future, it is happening now, most dramatically in the Arctic. The main cause is clear and undisputed. Increased carbon dioxide in the atmosphere due to the burning of fossil fuels is accepted as the main cause of climate change by all scientists save those working for the fossil fuel industry. Polar bears may be some of the earliest victims, but the rest of us are not far behind.” – Steve Sawyer

Our local climate has changed dramatically in the past day. The sea temperature is now above 6 C. We have turned the corner this morning and are now in the Bering Strait, heading south. The one thing we should have seen much more of this trip was summer sea ice, but other than the occasional patch of drift ice encountered, the main pack is far to our north. We are approaching the annual sea ice minimum, generally around mid September, and I will be interested to see if the winds we’ve experienced change the final outcome. The last report I heard anticipated significant loss, but likely not another record year as in 2007.
The village of Uelen sits just north of Cape Dezhnyova, the easternmost point of the Russian mainland. It is 7 AM local time when we sight the village and are surprised when we are hailed on the radio. Someone is up early and alert! We wake up Victor who explains who we are and arranges for a possible visit later in the day. The seas are too rough to land from the north, so we will round the cape and hope for a better anchorage.
At 8 AM the champagne cork flies and the crew assembles on the bow with Ola to celebrate. We are sitting abeam of the Cape and the expedition has now officially transited the Northeast Passage! Cheers and handshakes abound and many photos are taken to document the expedition’s success. It is a perfectly dramatic setting for what continues to be an amazing journey, and it is far from over. Steep cliffs drop to the ocean and seabirds are swirling in all directions. We count four gray whales during our celebration and can see both Diomede Islands from the bow (yes- I truly can see Alaska from my floating house in Russian waters!).
We round the cape and look for a good place to set the hook. A large tanker also sits at anchor nearby and a cargo ship passes us as we head into the bay. As Arctic shipping picks up, the Bering Strait will become a critical passageway and is notorious for fog and very strong currents. This is also a crucial passageway for seabirds, whales, seals, walrus, and polar bear. A shipwreck here could be disastrous and an oil spill would be carried for miles. This serves as another reminder that we need a strong governance framework for the Arctic including reasonable oversight of shipping activities and greatly improved rescue and accident response capabilities.
While Ola and the team have successfully navigated the Passage, we are still miles from Anadyr, where most of the crew will fly home. We are also a very long way from Dutch Harbour, Alaska where I will depart the ship after crossing the Bering Sea. The Bering is one of WWF’s priority ecoregions and home to not only the world’s most productive fisheries, but also Kamchatka, the Pribilof Islands, and Bristol Bay. Our field offices in Alaska and Kamchatka are focused on protecting these important places from some of the very same threats we have in the Arctic: shipping and industrial exploitation.
As Anders, Niklas, and I make our way across the Bering Sea, I will touch on some of these issues. Once we depart Anadyr, the trip will become an open ocean voyage and I will continue to update you on our experiences as we enter the region Vitus Bering described “where the sea breaks its back.” Until then, we have more Russian coast to cover over the next few days, and many more memorable experiences to share!