This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Cameron Dueck
There was more sea ice in the Arctic this summer than in the past two years, contrary to early spring ice forecasts and the longer term trend of melting sea ice.
“Arctic ice is holding in there, with about 20 percent more than in 2007,” Dr Humfrey Melling, a research scientist with Canada’s Institute of Ocean Sciences, told me.
The National Snow and Ice Data Center, a US body, said ice extended just shy of 2 million square miles (5 million sq. kilometres). That is 620,000 square miles (1.6 million sq. kilometres) less than the 30-year average. But there was more ice this September than the record low set in 2007 – about one-third of a million square miles more (2.6 million square kilometres). Last year ranked No. 2.
Ice forecasts early in the year had pointed to conditions that could match those of 2007 and 2008 when vast areas of sea ice melted, leaving the Northwest Passage open.
“Last winter there was an El Nino effect, which meant a colder winter for much of Canada, and the Arctic was very cold. This created thick ice which took longer to melt,” said Bruno Barrette, an ice expert aboard the Canadian Coast Guard icebreaker Sir Wilfred Laurier. He added that temperatures have remained below average during spring and summer. The Coast Guard invited us onboard for a lovely Sunday lunch while we were in Gjoa Haven, and the visit included an ice briefing.
A report from the Nansen Centre said that in the first half of August ice melted more slowly than during the same period in 2007 and 2008 due to a atmospheric conditions that transported ice toward the Siberian coast and discouraged the southward drift of ice from the Arctic Ocean.
“Therefore there will be no new record minimum in September 2009, but the minimum summer ice extent in 2009 will still be much lower than the 1979 to 2000 average,” the report said.
The Canadian Coast Guard was called upon to assist the sailing yacht Fiona in Peel Sound after the ice closed in on her and raised the boat clear out of the water. The German-flagged Perithia, surrounded by ice, had a polar bear walk up to the boat and try to enter the cockpit. Other boats were pushed onto the beach or had to wait for days for the ice to clear out of their way. Silent Sound was lucky … we had to change our sailing plans , port calls and time schedule to allow for the ice, but we escaped unharmed and completed the passage as planned.
Monthly Archives: September 2009
Northeast Passage: Opportunities for the Arctic
This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York
- Unalaska, heading for Dutch Harbour. Photo: Geoff York
When I come up for my final watch, we are at Unalaska Island, making our way into Dutch Harbour! It is still twilight, but the view is beautiful: steep mountains still mostly green, but with a dusting of fresh snow at higher elevations. The Aleutian Islands are among the most dramatically scenic places anywhere and I always hoped to see them someday. I just never imagined I would arrive to them from Russia!
Anders is also awake early as everyone is excited to be in port and looking forward to some time on land. The City of Unalaska and Port of Dutch Harbour support the huge commercial fishing industry that operates in the North Gulf of Alaska and Bering sea. We pass by some of the famous crab vessels from the Deadliest Catch video series and they dwarf our little boat.
- The Bering Star and the Nordic Star. Photo: Geoff York
By midday, we are tied up in the small boat harbour, freshly showered, and heading out to explore the town. Clearing customs was efficient, professional, and friendly and everyone from the harbourmaster to our boat neighbours and town folk were extremely warm and welcoming. My Swedish sailing mates dubbed Alaska their new favourite US state! We spend the balance of the day taking care of paperwork and orienting ourselves for laundry, showers on shore, and finding stores for ship supplies.
For me and Anders, the adventure with the Explorer ends here in Dutch. Niklas will assume command of the boat and take on new crew early next week. While his arctic journey is now past, his adventure is not even half way over as he will bring the boat back home to Sweden via the Panama Canal and expects to be in Gothenburg in early May. It has been quite a trip for us all and we look back over the trip from the beginning while sharing a good Alaskan Ale at the local pub.
The Arctic is one of the last and largest intact and wild ecosystems left on earth. It represents many things to many people: home, inspiration, potential for natural resources, polar bears, and sea ice. The Arctic is at the centre of the climate change discussion because impacts are occurring here first and faster than anyone predicted. Much of the news we hear from the Arctic is dire, and at times depressing, but there is hope.
Our voyage across the Northeast Passage was transformative. For me, it renewed my sense of hope in people and in the resilience of nature. The Arctic is not some far away frozen wasteland; it is a vibrant, productive, and necessary component of the planet. It is home to amazing people and wildlife. It provides crucial cooling and other services we all need to maintain life as we now know it in the southern latitudes most of us call home.
There are still places in this world where wilderness rules and wildlife is abundant. There are still opportunities for people and their governments to conserve these last wild and free places. The Arctic gives us one such opportunity.
We have a chance, fleeting and perhaps elusive, but a chance to save the Arctic and conserve what is best in this still remote and mystical region of our planet. Opportunities for reasonable and fair actions to be taken that will reduce greenhouse gas emissions and save the sea ice. It is through these actions that we can also save what is best about the areas we all live and reaffirm what is best in humanity.
Northwest Passage: Homeward bound through the icebergs
This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Cameron Dueck
The arctic midnight sun. Photo: WWF / Open Passage Expedition, Dr Tobias Neuberger
Silent Sound has crossed the Arctic Circle marking her official transit of the Northwest Passage! We entered the Arctic via the Bering sea two months ago to the day, and since then we’ve sailed some 3,400 nautical miles, seen a lot of ice and learned a lot about the Canadian North.
There are several definitions of where the Northwest Passage begins and ends, but using the Arctic Circle is certainly the most encompassing, so we’ve been holding our breath until we crossed this line. The Arctic Circle (66 30N) marks the lowest latitude at which the midnight sun is ever seen.
We are now sailing down the eastern Baffin Island coast, and we’ve had some stormy weather in recent days. The waves grew to be so big you had to look up to see them, and the wind was so strong we only needed one sail, our smallest one at that. We had waves up to 8m high and winds over 40 knots.
Now that we’re out of the arctic archipelago and into the open sea, we are seeing more icebergs, instead of ice floes. Ice floes are frozen seawater while icebergs are chunks of ice broken off glaciers in the high Arctic. Bergs begin as snow falling on land, which is then compressed into ice. Most of the icebergs in eastern arctic waters, where we are sailing now, are from the Greenland ice sheet. Even though icebergs can be 20 or 30 metres high, most of their volume is below water. Only about one third of their entire volume is visible above water. This means you have to stay well clear of them because they may spread out under water, like an upside down mushroom.
Dr Chris Pielou, our scientific advisor, tells me that icebergs contain vast numbers of very tiny bubbles, air that was trapped among the flakes of the snow from which the ice originated. This is what makes icebergs white. A chunk of berg-ice fizzes if you put it in water as the ice melts and releases these air bubbles.
For the crew of Silent Sound, icebergs are safer than ice floes because they are easier to see. Icebergs can be several stories high, and we can see them from miles away. They look like giant white apartment blocks floating on the ocean, and we can easily avoid them, even at night. Ice floes, however, are low and flat on the water, and are very hard to see. The tricky part comes when small bits of the icebergs break off. These pieces can be as big as a car, and if there are waves on the sea they are very hard to see. If we hit one of these chunks of ice in the dark, there is a good chance we’d sink the boat.
Northeast Passage: Sustainable fishing in the Arctic
This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York
In the middle of the Bering Sea, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, two ships cross paths. Once again I have a ship on radar right at the end of my watch. This vessel is using the new AIS, or automated identification system, as does the Explorer. AIS lets other vessels know who you are and can also give information on the current routing and even purpose of the vessel. This one is a large commercial trawler heading north, over 200 feet long and very modern – the Starbound.
The Starbound. Photo: Geoff York
We hail the ship and ask for weather information to compare with what we have already received. The captain of the trawler is more than a little surprised to see our relatively small sailboat way out here and southbound. His first question is to ask where in the world we are coming from. Anders quickly replies “Sweden, via the Northeast Passage”. He wishes us well only to hail again shortly after with a few more questions. He has internet onboard and has already discovered our expedition web page – technology is amazing!
Our friendly exchange with Starbound reminds me of the recently approved Arctic Fishery Management Plan (FMP). This was a landmark decision where conservation groups and the fishing industry agreed to use a conservation first approach to commercial fishing in the US Arctic. The Arctic FMP prohibits the expansion of commercial fishing in federal arctic waters until researchers gather sufficient information on the arctic marine environment to prevent adverse impacts of commercial fishing on the ecosystem.
Implementation of the Arctic FMP lays down a new standard for planning resource development in the Arctic in a precautionary way. It bars resource exploitation until we know enough about the Arctic to allow safe and sustainable development to proceed. It protects what we have now while we gather the necessary information to plan future activities. I can only hope other industries follow this leadership.
The Arctic is home to many species of marine mammals, seabirds, shorebirds, fish, shellfish, crustaceans and other invertebrates. The Arctic is also a fragile ecosystem, with relatively short, simple food chains. It is slow to recover from disturbance and injury. Effects from even a small commercial fishery in the Arctic could have substantial impacts that ripple throughout the ecosystem.
The arctic acean is also the epicentre of climate change impacts, showing an average temperature increase almost four times the global average. Rapidly rising temperatures, reduced summer sea ice, ocean acidification, and reduced benthic productivity associated with climate change could have serious implications for any prospective fisheries.
The Arctic gives us the opportunity to do it right, to learn from past mistakes. If we take a precautionary approach, we can plan for sustainable fishing that does not damage the overall health of this fragile ecosystem and will provide both food and employment opportunities into the future.
As my watch ends, I can finally see our destination on the edge of our electronic navigation chart. The seas have calmed to gentle swells and the winds are slow and variable.
Northeast Passage: Lighting up the darkness
This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York
Today we pass just south of St Mathew Island. We are not planning on any stops until Dutch Harbour as there is weather brewing in the North Pacific. None of us want to face a full Bering sea storm if we can avoid it, so we push on.
St Mathew is interesting in that it used to regularly support several hundred polar bears during the summer in a situation much like Churchill, Canada. The bears would come ashore when the ice receded and basically wait for its return. They were discovered by early explorers and whalers in the 1800’s and exterminated from the island. They have not returned.
So if polar bears once survived on this “southern” island, why are they not returning to this now protected area? Well, several things have changed, the first and perhaps most significant is the change in sea ice cover – both extent and duration. Back in those days, the ice-free period was relatively brief. Just as the early melt of sea ice in western Hudson Bay is leading to declines in that population, perhaps changes in the speed and timing of the melt in the Bering sea have prevented successful recolonisation. Conventional wisdom tells us that there were also far more seals whales, walrus, and even the now extinct sea cow prior to western exploitation of this region. Lastly, there were far fewer people on the planet pumping far less CO2 and other pollutants into the atmosphere.
With the changes in sea ice across the Arctic, some outside the polar bear research community have suggested that polar bears can simply come ashore and survive from eggs, berries, and fish. This is simply not possible. First off, most areas of high arctic tundra already have predators in the form of the tundra grizzly, wolverine, and wolf. These competitors occur in low densities because there is not an abundance of food. The tundra grizzly is also the smallest of the brown bears for this very reason, though it is not small in attitude and would not welcome its white cousins.
Nutritionally, it also just doesn’t add up. Polar bears are often referred to as “lipovores” or fat eaters because this is what they evolved to efficiently process in the unique arctic environment. The rely on seals primarily to provide this fat and it in return help keeps them warm and provides some hydration when digesting. There simply are not enough bird eggs, berries, or fish available at the right times, in enough places, or the needed volumes, to sustain a large number of polar bears. New research from the University of Alberta is currently examining this in a quantitative manner – look for a new paper within the year.
Phosphorescent sea life ... Photo by Flickr user amirjina, under a Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial No-Derivs licence.
The boat pitches, yaws, and rolls all day and into the night. 30 degree rolls now seem normal. Phosphorescent sea life light up the otherwise dark seas as they are disturbed by our passing wake. While I have seen phosphorescent diatoms in the Gulf of Alaska, some of these appear to be jellyfish as they are large and very brightly lit. It is magical to see and somehow comforting as I sit alone in the dark wheelhouse. I am reminded of the Bob Marley line – “light up the darkness” which leads to the refrain “every little thing gonna’ be alright” … at least for tonight.
Northeast Passage: Saving the Arctic, one walrus at a time
This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York
The winds have picked up overnight and the weather map shows we are heading into a small gale as a low pressure system slides up the Bering. This is very expected weather for this area in September. The good news is that the winds will be favourable for sailing and we are soon able to set the main and Genoa without losing any boat speed. The bad news is that the ride will be rough for at least the next 36 hours.
With the sails set for our south-easterly voyage, will now have a 10-20 degree lean to the starboard side, which is not the best for my bunk. The swells pick up all day and by the evening I get to feel several 35 degree rolls and one greater than that which really got my attention as a novice sailor! The Explorer is a good heavy steel boat and has sailed all over the world, including trips to Antarctica. Anders and Niklas are also experienced and capable sailors, so I feel at relative ease.
Just as we were departing Anadyr yesterday, I received some troubling and some promising news for Pacific walrus. The good news is that the US Fish and Wildlife recommended that walrus merit listing under the US Endangered Species Act, primarily due to the current and predicted loss of sea ice habitat and expected decline in the population size. At the same time, there have been reports in Alaska of thousands of walrus hauling out in large shore based aggregations in places and in numbers not seen before.
Photo of a Pacific walrus by Flickr user Beyond Neon, under a Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial licence.
This was witnessed last year as well and new research by the US Geological Survey is now documenting that walrus abandon their preferred sea ice habitat one it recedes beyond the shallow waters of the continental shelf. It is a combination of the sea ice ecosystem and these shallow waters that have allowed walrus to thrive in these waters. The sea ice not only distributes the walrus and prevents them from overgrazing, it is also the foundation for the benthic productivity as it prevents a more pelagic system from forming. This is all beginning to change as the sea ice pulls back and walrus will be an early indicator of things yet to come if we fail to address the situation.
The large haul outs in Ryrkaipiy and Vankarem also appear related to the changing sea ice, especially the dramatic loss of ice from the Chukchi sea. When you see so many animals in one place, it is clear that they will require huge amounts of prey to survive. More than is likely available for the current numbers. We also know, as I discussed earlier, that walrus are an almost certain attractant for bears and the associated problems that can bring with humans.
I return to my mantra: saving the Arctic one polar bear at a time. If we take the necessary actions to reduce our greenhouse gas emissions and live more sustainably, we not only help the polar bear, but we help each member of the arctic ecosystem, including the walrus. And while some walrus could successfully live from shore haul outs for the foreseeable future, they will be much fewer in number and much more prone to disturbance, disease, and mortalities.
I generally feel better in rough seas when I can look out, facing forward, so I am glad to come up for my watch. Problem is, its pitch black outside with heavy cloud cover. This is my first solo watch under sail, and I admit to being a little bit anxious as Niklas gave me a few final pointers and slipped down for his rest period. With each big roll of the boat, I checked the angle indicator and listened for and items falling from shelves or bunks down below. I am very relieved when midnight comes and Anders takes over. Sleeping will be an interesting exercise in bracing tonight!
Northeast Passage: South to Alaska
This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York
The Gulf of Anadyr on Google Maps
South to Alaska! We head out into a beautifully calm Gulf of Anadyr and the current is going our way, giving us a small boost in speed. This is a perfect way to start our trip across the Bering Sea. Our planned route will take us just south of St Mathew Island and along the edge of the continental shelf that separates Russia from Alaska.
The boat is strikingly different with only three crew members onboard. Instead of tight quarters for eight, we now have room to roam and spread out a bit. It is noticeably quieter and we feel a sense of freedom as we head back to sea with the last of our tight deadlines behind us. The atmosphere is instantly relaxed and happy with two men who feel more at home on the sea than land, and one that could easily learn this sailing lifestyle.
Fulmars keep constant company with the boat, soaring and darting around the main mast. The seas remain calm into the evening as we ease into our new watch schedule. Anders will keep the night and midday watch and I move to the 8-12 time slots. Niklas takes over the captain’s room since he will stay on the longest.
The sea is virtually still when I take over the watch at 8 PM. Niklas gives me a few pointers on the radar and reviews the basic duties I used to share with Anders: hourly check of the engine systems and basic navigation. I periodically poke my head up through the hatch to get a better view and enjoy the evening air. I can hear the fulmars still following along with us in the silence of the night.
At about half past ten, I have a ship on the radar and quickly make visual contact with binoculars. She is abeam the port side and will pass well behind our route. As I scan towards the bow I pick up a second ship at the one o’clock position and not yet on the radar. It is initially hard to discern her course or direction, so I wait patiently to see if it gets closer. The two most dangerous things for sailboats such as the Explorer are shorelines (things you can hit) and other boats (things that can hit you). Luckily the night is clear and we have excellent radar onboard to help my novice eyes. Even though we are heading south into somewhat busier seas, rescue is still far away and the waters quite cold.
With a ship on both sides of me, I suddenly hear a loud “swoosh!” and a “thunk”. It sounds like something has come up alongside the boat so I quickly pop up for a look and only to see nothing. I look around the dark cabin and suddenly worry we may be passing through fishing grounds and have tangled in some gear. Great I thought, my first solo night watch and now this mysterious noise and in the middle of ship traffic. I finally notice an odd bulge in the pile of life vests sitting in the port locker. One of the self inflating vests had gone off by chance – mystery solved!
Northeast Passage: Visiting Anadyr
This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York
The wind and seas ease as we approach Anadyr. We pick up a local pilot as we enter the long bay that leads to the city. He’s a friendly retired captain who spent 20 years in charge of big ships along Russia’s eastern and northern coasts. Anders takes the wheel so I go down and cook up a hearty brunch of potatoes, eggs, and a mystery ham-like product we picked up in Pevek. It actually turns out to be very good and the pilot happily shares our meal. I wish I could speak Russian so I could truly visit with this interesting man.
Like so many, I squandered early opportunities to learn a second language. Living in such a large country, and having few chances to travel abroad in my youth, I truly did not understand the importance and utility of being multi-lingual. So I studied a little German, a little Spanish, and a little Chinese, but mastered none of these languages. I have very few regrets in my life, but this is definitely one.
In my work with WWF, I routinely interact with colleagues and partners from around the world. It is not uncommon for my European and Russian colleagues to speak three and sometimes four languages with relative ease. I envy the ability to communicate more across cultures. We were so very fortunate on this trip to have Victor Boyarsky to translate, but there is something you miss if you are unable to participate in casual conversations.
There is much I would have liked to ask people as we transited the Russian coast. Questions about their day to day lives and changes they have witnessed over the past decade. While it was a lifetime experience to sit with Vladilen in Ryrkaipiy and Fedor in Vankarem, it would have been even more so to have conversed with them in this setting. Much like politics, language is an artificial barrier separating people from more fully understanding one another.
Back on the boat, everyone is awake and 5 of the crew are madly packing their bags after spending over a month at sea. Ola, Hannibal, Per-Magnus, Fredrik, and Victor will spend one last night aboard the Explorer before checking into the Hotel Chukotka in Anadyr for the weekend. We have made arrangement to clear customs early tomorrow morning and they will have to have themselves and all of their gear off the boat when the agents arrive.
Anadyr sits back in a protected bay and is a very interesting town. As we motor into the dock, I am surprised and happy to see a new development going in across from the city – wind power! A half dozen brand new turbines dot the hillside, one still under construction. Approaching the dock you see clean, brightly colored buildings, several quite modern in design, and a stunning all-wood Russian Orthodox church with gilded domes. Even the cranes on the dock are getting fresh paint and the town seems busy with activity and new construction.
This is the home of Roman Aboramovich, the well-known owner of Chelsea FC, the English Premier League football team. Along with supporting renovations in some of the Chukchi communities, Mr Aboramovich has invested heavily in Anadyr, and it shows. The streets are paved and the grocery store is as modern and well stocked as you would see in any large city, though the population here only approaches 13,000. There is a sense of optimism and pride in this place.
Following a quick look around town, we buy a few fresh ingredients and have our farewell dinner on the boat. Bags are stacked everywhere as we share thanks and stories from the trip thus far. The morning will come much too early!
Northeast Passage: So, what of the polar bear?
This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York
“Threats to polar bears will occur at different rates and times across their range although warming-induced habitat degradation and loss are already negatively affecting polar bears in some parts of their range.” – Eric Born, Chair of the IUCN Polar Bear Specialist Group
File image of a polar bear. Photo: WWF / David Jenkins
As we cross the Gulf of Anadyr, my mind wanders back to the where it started. So what of the polar bear and the loss of sea ice? What can you or I do as individuals to really make a difference? Global climate change is such a huge and complex problem, is the situation hopeless?
Although this expedition has had encounters and experiences with many arctic species and Northern peoples, my work with WWF concerns the polar bear. The way I see it, my job is to save the Arctic, one polar bear at a time. Of all the animals we have seen, polar bears were among the least abundant, and least common. This could be a simple matter of timing as most bears should be out on the main pack ice and not on or near shore. Having also seen few ice seals, common in similar parts of Alaska, I wonder if it might be something more.
The lack of summer sea ice which made our trip possible makes life for polar bears much more difficult. As the ice recedes, bears are forced to travel far offshore in search of prey or to gamble and risk spending a summer on land as we saw near Cape Cheliuskin. 30 years of research in several parts of the Arctic have shown that polar bears prefer the near shore waters over the continental shelf, but that habitat is now missing in much of the Arctic during summer months. Staying with the pack ice also means a much longer trek for bears as the ice refreezes, for hunting, but more importantly for denning females seeking coastal habitat.
The simple solution for polar bears is to save their habitat from the worst of global warming. New research presented at the PBSG in Copenhagen this summer and to be released in a publication later this month shows that mitigating green house gas emissions, if we do it quickly and aggressively, will have a positive outcome on predicted sea ice loss and can still benefit polar bears. There is still reason to hope, and there is plenty we can all do to help.
We can contact our local, state, and national politicians and urge them to support a strong new climate treaty resulting from the upcoming meeting in Copenhagen this December. We can also ask them to support measures that will increase energy efficiency and the increased investment in and use of renewable energy. We can demand that they begin a transition away from our current, unsustainable carbon economy.
On a personal level, we can all take actions that, collectively, can make a huge difference. We can use less and recycle more. We can demand more goods made from recycled materials and from sustainable practices. We can drive less and bike more or use public transit. We can all make our homes more energy efficient with appropriate insulation, and modern low energy lighting fixtures and appliances. We can buy locally made goods whenever possible. Each act, however small, can and will make a difference.
Northeast Passage: Filled with hope
This summer, WWF is helping support two expeditions that will take on some of the world’s most difficult waters, to see first-hand the effects of Arctic climate change. One expedition is sailing across the top of Russia, a journey of 6000 nautical miles through the Northeast Passage, while another is attempting a west to east transit of the Northwest Passage, also by sailing boat, a journey of about 7,000 nautical miles.
Tom Arnbom of Sweden was on the ‘Explorer of Sweden’ though the Northeast Passage, as was WWF Arctic Programme Director Neil Hamilton for much of the trip, replaced near the end by WWF polar bear coordinator Geoff York. On the ‘Silent Sound’ Cameron Dueck of the Open Passage Expedition is filing regular stories from the Northwest passage. Come back for photos and stories throughout the summer, and follow the progress of the boats as they follow in the wake of some of history’s most intrepid explorers.
By Geoff York
Life at 20 degrees … I fell asleep last night to a boat pitching against a head wind – raising me up and then dropping me in my bunk. Luckily for me, I am very good at sleeping! I awoke this morning curled comfortably on the wall of my berth.
The usual morning orientation is a bit more exaggerated when you are under sail and leaning to port a steady 20 degrees, with an occasional 25 degree roll thrown in just to keep you on your toes. Walking up to the salon is more of a chore as everything has shifted and the gear rack, with clothes normally hanging vertically against the wall, has become a maze of coats, shoes, and dangling immersion suits. Each step is taken only after securing the next handhold. We are making a steady 8 knots in 6 to 8 foot seas under blue skies. We pass Provideniya and head out across the Gulf of Anadyr.
The coastline is mountainous and long fjords are becoming common. The hillsides are mostly rock with only light scrub vegetation. I expected more marine activity as we head south, but see no other vessels today. Shore based border guards have contacted us twice in the last 12 hours to verify our identity, much more active monitoring than the earlier part of our trip.
Fulmars keep us company all day as they cruise low along the wave tops and play in the eddy of our sails. The afternoon sun warms the cabin and waves wash across the deck. The sound of the sea is relaxing as I think about the past several days and I am filled with hope.
An arctic fulmar. Photo: Neil Hamilton
Despite all of the bad news in the world, despite the looming threats of a rapidly changing climate, this voyage has renewed my sense of hope for the future. Meeting the people of northern Russia reminded me of our common aspirations and goals. We share a universal need for clean air, fresh water, and wild resources from the land and sea. I wonder too if we could communicate directly more often, and not through the lens of our governments, how much better people would understand this commonality? Sharing tea with people in this remote part of the world has renewed my faith in humanity. There is still so much that is good in this world.
The explosion of wildlife in the Chukchi and Bering seas has also buoyed my spirits. Travelling through huge areas of still untamed wild spaces, witnessing that, at least in some parts of the Arctic, wildlife is yet abundant, people still live from the land and sea, and ecosystems appear intact, renews my faith in the resilience of the natural world.
We still have the chance to conserve this unique region, not just in Russia, but across the Arctic, while still meeting the needs of people and developing resources in a precautionary, sustainable manner. Saving the Arctic, such a key regulator of the global environment, we can also help save the landscapes and wildlife in our own back yards. The wild lands, wildlife, clean air, and fresh water that ultimately sustain us all.